day twelve - caught by the ebb

7:15 under power out of Wallys Leg (and still wondering about that name).  Calm, peaceful night.  Two dolphins at the mouth of the creek.  7:25 sails up on the Mackay River.  It feels like slack high tide but a crab pot float shows the flood tide still running.

At red marker "232" just enough wind to sail against the tide, 0.6,  8:15 making 3.1 as the wind fills in.

Just wonderful sailing through the marsh, not another soul in sight.

The river curves south and making 2.8 but struggling against the wind and the tide.  Tacking but sometimes not gaining ground, sometimes losing ground.  Wind comes and goes.  9:25 struggling to round a point, keep loosing ground on the starboard tack.  Finally give in, crank up the outboard and motor around the point. 

The river opens up and better wind, making 3.5 against the tide.  10:45 doing 5.0 towards the bridge and wonder why I didn't have this wind an hour ago.  

11:05 under the bridge, tacking through the channel that leads to St. Simons Sound.  Nice run down past two green markers towards red marker "250."  

11:45 reach red "250" and attempt to begin a series of tacks to the southwest.  Choppy and confused water coming down from the Turtle River.  And I realize I have made a mistake.  I'm just inside the inlet and the tide has turned.  The ebb is carrying a massive from the Mackay and Turtle Rivers, connecting creeks and marshes, out through the narrow inlet.  That water, combined with the west wind, is carrying us south and east.  The ocean is not that far away, and I'm losing ground.

Under power against the ebb, sails slatting in the wind.  Get a further inside the inlet, try to sail but still can't make headway.  Sails down, under power.  I'm surprised how much ground is lost in the few minutes that it takes to bring down the sails.  

Throttle up against the tide.  12:45 pounding against the chop, pick out the entrance markers for Jekyll Creek.  1:10 in the creek.  Call ahead to Jekyll Island Marina.  

Docked at the marina 2:15.  Windy, gusty and hot.  I'm frustrated.  I should have known better that to try and sail against the west wind and ebb tide.  Sit in the shade of tree, have a glass of iced tea, try to relax.

At dinner I check the forecast.  Some rough weather is coming.  Decide to worry about it tomorrow.

21.7 NM

 

day eleven - three more Sounds

7:20 under power on the Crescent River, no wind and low dark overcast.   An uncomfortable night with the rushing tides and noisy work on the shrimp boats across the marsh in little fishing village of Valona.  Motor down the Front River.  7:55 sails up turning onto Old Teakettle Creek, motor sailing.

8:00 red marker "158A" shows an opposing tide.  8:10 a tease from the wind but still motor sailing.  Look east across the marsh and see a couple of sailboats anchored on New Teakettle Creek, I make a note to remember the anchorage that I had never noticed before.  

10:00 out on Doboy Sound, grey, cool and very little wind.  10:15 wind arrives, along with some rain.  Sailing at 3.2 and looking for channel markers on the other side of the Sound.  

Rain leaves quickly, wind remains.  See the channel just above Commodore Island.  Channel heads due west, and that is exactly where the wind is coming from.  Round up near some old fish camps on the marsh, bring down main and jib, under power as the channel narrows and turns south.  

Motoring south with Darien and Rockdundy Rivers to starboard, navigate through one of the narrower and shallower stretches of the ICW in this area.  Follow the path, keeping Wolf Island to port, notice another possible anchorage on the Wolf River.  Take note for a future cruise.  Gusty and choppy, grey and cool now on the Mud River.

12:10, as the river turns east towards Altamaha Sound, round up and raise the jib.  Downwind reach to red marker "198" and the open sound, round up and raise the main.  Full sail tacking west into the wind, into the strong ebb tide.

At first making 1.3.  Then 1.6, ten 2.0 as I get a better feel for the wind and water.  Soon making 3.0 against the tide and I smile.

1:15 tacking at 3.3, making headway on one tack, giving up some of it on the next.  A barge and tug come around the bend in the Altamaha River, I notice that I've seen more commercial traffic this year than other of my other sails south.

The water curves to the northwest, wind forward of port beams and I get a break from tacking.  Then the channel curves southwest and more tacking as we approach Buttermilk Sound, marked as a Sound but really just a wide spot on the river.

Overcast breaking up, some blue skies and getting warmer.  The warmth comes from the wind swinging south, more tacking with a long reach across the mouth of Fridaycap Creek.  The creek marks the head of the tide, so now the tide is finally a helping tide.

Easy sailing coming onto the Mackay River.  The sun feels good, and so does that helping tide.

Just past green marker "229" turn west into Wally's Leg, an anchorage from a past trip.  There is a boat, an Island Packet, anchored there.  I hail the boat and a man comes up from below.  I ask him how much anchor rode he has out so I can anchor far enough away for when the tide turns.  He motions ahead and I see where I need to go.  I thank him.  He tells me it is good to see a boat coming in under sail.  

Anchor down 4:20.

 27.07 NM

day ten - tack, tack, tack

7:30 raise the anchor, set centerboard and rudder, raise sails drifting on the tide.  Comfortable night.  Over 50° for a change.  Nice!  Light overcast, south wind, 2.1.  Down Walburg Creek, with the current doing most of the work.

8:00 sailing on the Newport River.  Grey dolphins, grey skies.  

8:25 motor sailing.  8:45 feels like slack high tide, motoring down Johnson Creek.  Sun breaks through for a moment, feels good.  9:30 at red marker "130" see signs of the ebb tide.  A barge and tug coming from the south, slide over to the green side to give them room.  I get a steep wake from the  SOARING EAGLE.  

Wind! 10:30 tacking into both wind and tide, 4.5 on choppy water.  Slipping out of Johnson Creek, I am confused by the markers.  A green marker to the north, with a red marker beyond.  And a green marker to the south, with a red marker beyond that.  It takes me a few minutes to realize there are channels heading in each direction.  I want to the channel heading south, the one that leads to Sapelo Sound.

Make a series of tacks keeping red markers to starboard, reach marker "138" and fall on to Sapelo Sound at 10:55.  Sailing hard on the wind but don't seem to have the speed I expect.  Hook a crap pot float on the rudder, round up to slip it free.  Still struggling to make some speed.

Check Navionics to see that I am making 3.0 kts against the full ebb tide running at 2.29 kts. That explains it all to me.

11:20 less wind, 1.6 into the ebb.  11:30 pick out the green markers ahead leading to the Front River.  Better wind with warm gusts that feel good.  

12:15 following the markers into the river.  12:30 begin tacking against the wind and tide, making headway on the ports tacks and losing some of that on each of the starboard tacks.  1:25 time the tacks to see it is about two minutes before I have to come about on the narrow river.  Still fighting the ebb tide.

Sailing as close to the muddy banks as I can before tacking, the river bends south and narrows at green marker "155A."  Tacks are now less than a minute each.

After a series of short tacks the wind builds and I worry about burying the centerboard in the mud.  Under power straight down the narrow channel for the last hundred yards or so to the mouth of the Crescent River.  Fall off into the river, drop anchor.  Quickly realize I am still exposed to the wind generated waves coming off the Front River.  Raise the anchor and use mizzen and jib to follow the Crescent River around the curve to calmer water.  Anchor down 3:30.   Tired.

 24.19 NM

day nine - three Sounds

7:25 motor sailing against the flood tide out of the Herb River.  Cool, crisp night.  Clear skies in the morning.  7:40 on the Wilmington River.

A touch of wind entering the Skidaway River, slide to starboard out of the channel as tug with a barge and crane comes down the river.  8:15 find enough wind to sail, 2.5.  8:15 feel the warmth of the sun.  Less wind, motor sailing.  8:50 sailing at 2.3.  Then less wind and a gentle drift around the bend at Isle of Hope.

9:50 motor sailing through the Skidaway Narrows, the trees blocking the breeze.  10:00 under the bridge, full sail making 2.4 with a helping tide.

10:15 on the Moon River with a building wind, making 6.2 with a strong assist from the tide.   

10:25 jibe to the Burnside River. 10:45 jibe again to the Vernon River.  Making 4.6 to 6.2 with some gusts on Green Island Sound.  11:20 falling off the wind at the top of Ossabow Sound.

Pick out the markers and follow the shallow path towards the cut at Racoon Key.  Less wind and choppy water.  Cross a tide line and calmer water, 2.4 with wind on the stern.  11:30 in the cut with Racoon Key to port and Little Done Island to starboard.  

11:40 at red marker "92" jibe up the Ogeechee River.  Good wind but working against the strong ebb tide sailing at just 2.1. Then 1.5.  Then 1.3.  No complaints on a pretty day.  12:30 better wind and markers for the Florida Passage in sight.  

12:55 jibe into the Passage, 2.4.  1:30 at green marker "99" making 3.2 through the marsh with wind on the port beam.  

2:10 at green marker "103" sailing at 3.7 with a helping tide.  A few gusts come through, gps shows 6.0.  2:30 channel bends to the east, making a series of tacks into the wind.  Low tide exposes muddy banks and white sandy beaches along the marsh grass.

2:55 the Passage turns back south, wind forward of port beam and excellent sailing at 5.0.  Pass Kilkenny Creek, a little marina and excellent anchorage there but too early in the day to stop.  3:30 tacking towards St. Catherines Inlet, now against the flood tide and making 3.1.  

3:45 making 4.3 close hauled.  Passing red marker "110A" in the afternoon gusts at 4.5 begin to fall off to cross St. Catherines Sound.  Helping tide and crossing at 5.1 kts.  A surprisingly easy and fast crossing of the inlet.

4:20 across the Sound and entering Walburg Creek, 5.7 with a strong flood tide.  South on the creek for just under two nautical miles, then follow the curve west around the marsh, anchor down 4:55 Walburg Creek.

32.94 NM

 

day eight - ride the tides

photo by Webb Chiles

First light down at the dock.  Break down the tent and stow the gear.  Excellent north wind, in fact enough that I tuck in a reef, figuring that it is easier to shake out an unneeded reef than to tuck one in if needed out in the channel.

Webb comes down to the dock and we talk about the tide.  He tells me that an opposing tide began running up at Dolphin Point 40 minutes earlier.  He also points out that the tide will switch near the bridge which is just above Last End Point.  I tell Webb have struggled in this area with all the different tides and currents in this area.  Hope to make the anchorage on the New River behind Daufuskie Island, or maybe even the Wright River just this side of the Savannah River by evening.  It all depends on wind and tide.  I thank Webb for his hospitality and cast off.  Breezier than I thought out on the creek, so raise just mizzen and jib.  Making 3.4 just off the docks at 7:40.

8:00 raise the reefed main near red marker "14," 4.1.  Sun breaking through the low overcast, chilly.  Wearing bibs and wool sweater.  8:30 under the bridge, crossing the head of the tide so that opposing tide is now a helping tide.  

8:40 shake out the reef, full sail down Calibogue at 4.7 to 5.3.  Gps hits 5.7 in a puff.

Skies now clear and it is a beautiful day, wind and tide both in our favor.

9:05 jibe towards the Cooper River, taking the channel west of Middle Marsh Island.  In the cut, pass port to port the ferry coming out of Haig Point on Daufuskie Island.  The channel is lined with floating oyster crates, something I don't remember from earlier passages.  

Making 5.2 on the calm water inside the marsh.  9:40 cut inside red marker "32" on to the Cooper River where I find an opposing ebb tide.  Feels like I am going fast but making just 3.6 sailing into the noisy, choppy water.  10:35 at green marker "37" turn to Ramshorn Creek, 3.9.  10:50 green marker "39" shows the ebb is now a helping tide, 5.9.  Sunny with some scattered clouds agains the bright blue sky.  Getting warmer and take off the wool sweater.

11:05 much calmer water in the marshes, making 5.7 with the helping tide.  11:20 red "44" and the tide is now against us, 2.9.  Already passed the New River anchorage and the Wright River is just ahead.  Not even noon so well ahead of expectations.  

Checking AIS on my phone, see there is a large ship called CHEM STREAM coming up the Savannah River at 8.6 kts.  Making a few tacks on the Wright River, just waiting for the ship to pass.  

11:45 turn into the cut that leads to the Savannah River, there is a wind shadow from trees on shore, 2.5.  Out of the shadow making 5.3.  12:05 sail out onto the Savannah River.  The strong ebb tide is running and quickly see that even with excellent wind SPARTINA is sliding down river.  Start up the outboard to motor sail against the current.  12:20 out of the shipping channel and entering Elba Island Cut.  12:40 red marker "10" shows an opposing tide, sailing at 3.4.  1:00 doing 2.4 in light wind.

Passing red marker "22" see the tide has turned, now a helping flood tide.   1:20 on the Wilmington River, 2.6.  1:40 2.4, then more wind and a run at 5.2.  Less wind passing through Thunderbolt, 3.9.

Leaving Thunderbolt, turn to starboard into the Herb River.  2:45 anchor down.  

Evening, watch a small cruise ship pass by on the other side of the marsh.  Look at the charts and see than in a single day I have sailed what normally takes two days to cover.  The winds and tides were with me.

27.30 NM

 

day seven - waiting out the weather

Up just after dawn to head down to the docks.  SPARTINA and GANNET sit calmly side by side.  Small craft warnings today.  Webb kindly suggests I wait out the weather in Hilton Head. I thank him for his hospitality.

Back at the condo I catch up on the log book, charge batteries and do some laundry.

Webb and Carol offer to take me to the grocery store.  I pick up enough supplies - a bag of apples and some snacks - to easily get me through the rest of the trip.  Back at the condo, I walk back to the dock to find the weather has arrived.  A low overcast and waves battering up against the docks.  All lines are secure and SPARTINA'S boom tent is keeping her dry.

An early afternoon lunch at Hudson's Seafood House, excellent, as we watch the pelicans hide from the winds in the lee of the building.  Then an afternoon and evening watching the Olympics as light rain comes through.  The storm should be gone by morning.