day nine - hellos and goodbyes

UP at 5:30, clear skies and a light west wind.  The day begins with a new set of clothes.  How nice!

Tucking away gear I see a man approaching on a paddle board.  It is Rossco, who arrived last night to join Matto on TRIM.  We had met last year, and he had come over to hello......and goodbye.  Just after dinner last night he had received a message that he needed, for reasons beyond his control, to return home.  He had no choice.  What a shame.

At the Town Dock before 7:00, I begin walking to the coffee shop and run in to Matto, Rossco and Freya, they join me for breakfast as Rossco waits for a ride to the airport.  It was good to have some time to catch up, even if Rossco can't join the sail.

Back at the Town Dock, I am impressed by a lobsterman who has tied his LACEY ANN to the dock as the tide ran out so he could change his prop.  He tells me he tied up at 2:00 am, the morning high tide, and expects to leave the dock with the afternoon high tide.  I ask him how he learned to do it.  He thinks for a moments, says he must have learned it when he was eight or so years old, helping his Dad do the same.  

I grab a mooring just off the dock to clean SPARTINA for a couple of guests.  Soon, the oldest daughter and her husband arrive, they are camping nearby.  The forecast strong westerlies have arrive, we head out for a sail under mizzen and jib, a perfect morning on the water.  Then lunch.  And then goodbye, my second goodbye of the day.  

1:20 under mizzen and jib to Somes Sound.  1:30 out of Southwest Harbor, 3.9.  1:40 raise the double-reefed main.

Solid wind on the port beam, 5.5 when the gusts roll through, 3.8 otherwise.  It is a straight shot up the Sound and an easy sail on a sunny, breezy day.

2:00 turn into Valley Cove, make a handful of tack up along the shoreline to find the right spot in the anchorage.  At the base of two mountains, there is a steep drop-off and I need to find the sweet spot that is not too deep, not too shallow.  Anchor down 2:30.

I must have picked the prime spot as two schooners, both in the 60 to 80 foot range, try to anchor on either side of me.  The first one, out of New York, makes three attempts, and for whatever reason, gives up, heads off to another anchorage.  The second makes just one attempt, then heads off.  And finally a large power boat comes in, looks around, then heads off.  I guess I had the spot.

I relax in the shade of the boom tent, drying out some gear that had gotten a bit damp during the two storms. A light dinner before heading off to sleep.

 7.54 NM

day eight - a day off

A little rain in the night.  There is a float nearby that is covered by seals.  Late night they make guttural noises like a bunch of old men...belching, coughing and gurgling.  A little annoying but kind of funny.

Wake to fog and cries of seagulls.  The apps show that the rain has moved on, forecast is for fog and wind.  Chilly, layer on a wool sweater and wool socks.  Hot chocolate with breakfast.

Mid-mornng Matto and Freya drop by to check on me.  We visit for a while, talking about weather, gear and boats.  We've both got company coming soon.  Matto has his friend Rossco coming to join him for the sail.  My daughter and son-in-law will be camping nearby.

Read, sleep, relax. Some rain in the afternoon, some strong gusts too, but not nearly the 50 mph that had been forecast.  A relaxing day.

 

day seven - fog, a friend and Freya

Wake at 5:00 to thick, thick fog.  Only two sounds are water lapping against SPARTINA's wooden hull and the muffled cries of eagles in the trees.  The only goal is to get to Southwest Harbor, and not a breath of wind to get there.

Slip on the drysuit and put the fog horn on the starboard seat.  6:00 under power.  In the shallows following the GPS track from yesterday.  6:15 at green marker "3" turn south inside of Halftide Ledge to head to deeper water.  

6:30 green marker "1" in the fog at the southern end of Calf Island and slip out onto Frenchman Bay.  6:40 motoring with Stave Island to port though I can't see it.  Feel the wake from a lobster working pots to starboard.  

7:10 Long Porcupine Island to starboard, as the GPS tells me, but can't see it. Glad it is a Sunday morning, less lobster boats out on the water.  7:25 unseen Iron Bound Island to port.  8:20 the sun reaches though the thick grey fog, brightens my spirits and feels good.  8:25 hear bell on a buoy before I see it.  8:45 thicker fog and the sun is gone.

9:30 less fog, begin the turn to the west, struggling to keep a steady course with grey in every direction.  9:40 turn southeast to avoid East Bunker Ledge.  9:50 hear a bell but can't see the buoy.  Hands are cold and wet, my glasses are fogged by the mist.

10:00 less fog and I am pleased to see Sutton Island with my own eyes, don't need the GPS to recognize the dark mass.  10:10 feel a warm breeze, Bear Island emerging from the fog to starboard.  10:30 GPS shows Greening Island nearby but, again, can't see it.  I can see dark shapes of masts ahead...Southwest Harbor.

Photo by Matto

10:50 try to get fuel at Beal's but find the fuel dock is closed on Sunday.  A man tells me the fuel dock at Dysart's Marina is open today.  I motor over there and in search of the fuel dock recognize Matto's TRIM tied up at the marina.  I find the fuel dock but have to wait in line.  Here comes Matto with his dog Freya, it is good to see them both.  

It is time for lunch so Matto and Freya hop on board and we motor to the Upper Town Dock, walk up the street and grab some sandwiches as the skies clear and it turns into a beautiful day.  I drop Matto and Freya off at the marina, head to an unused mooring that Matto has already scouted out for me.

Tied up at the mooring, I hear from Matto that he has a loaner car for a run to the grocery.  He offers to pick me up at the town dock, second visit to the dock which might not fit the rules but it is a quiet day so why not.  We take turns with Freya outside the grocery store with Freya while the other does their shopping.  Tinned fish, crackers, apples and beer for me.

Matto drops me off at SPARTINA, then heads off to the marina.

A long and interesting day.  Good to be in well protected waters while waiting on tomorrow's storm.  Excellent, simple dinner of spicy yellowfin tuna, crackers, apple and a beer.

 22.05 NM

day six - a bagel from breakfast, a warning from a friend

Glassy calm night, diesels rumbling well before dawn.  Up at 5:30 to the sound of screeching terns flying about the harbor. At Upper Town Dock at 6:45 for a walk up to the coffee shop for a bagel, iced tea and wi-fi to catch up on emails.  

Cast off 8:40, 2.6 tacking through the mooring field of Southwest Harbor.  Making 1.8 at red "8".  Tack of Greening Island as a boat approaches.  

It is Luke, who I met last year at the Upper Town Dock.  A great guy, he gave me a ride to the grocery last summer.  He is headed out to Swans Island, wanted to say hello.  

The wind falls off, so I drop back into the harbor to look at the boats moored there, some classic boats and some cruising boats.  Always interesting boats at Southwest Harbor.

Wind fills in 9:40, sailing east at 1.7 past Greening Island.  Slow, pleasant sailing.  11:00 approaching Bear Island, 1.1 and and I wonder if I see the fog moving in, not sure.  11:30 struggling, light wind and an opposing tide.  Motorsailing.  12:15 off Seal Harbor, still struggling.  1:00 wind and sailing off Otter Point, 1.4.  1:45 making 3.3.  Pleased to see the fog bank holding off shore.

1:55 turn northeast towards the east end of Iron Bound Island, 3.3 with the wind over the starboard quarter.  2:10 Hard Iron Ledge and Egg Rock to the starboard, 4.6 in the afternoon breeze.  2:45 booming surf off the cliffs of Iron Bound Island, choppy water with the mix of wind and tide, 3.0.  

Follow the eastern shore of Iron Bound Island north to Jordan Island.  I had heard about some good anchorages there.  There's a bar that runs from Jordan Island east to the the mainland and I am wondering if I can cross it.  Well ahead of me I see a local tour boat crossing the bar, I take note that it clings to Jordan Island for the crossing.  I do the same.  

I pass by two possible anchorages, one on the eastern side just above the bar and the other at the north end.  Not impressed with either in the current wind conditions, so continue north along Stave Island, making 4.2.  Follow the path past the Calf Island Point buoy and then south into southern Flanders Bay.  Still not the right spot to anchor.  

Turn back north, sailing downwind with Halftide Ledge to port, then turning northwest at Sunken Ledge into the north end of Flanders Bay.  Pass Asli Island and tuck into the shallows behind Sheldrake Island.  Perfect spot.  Anchor down 4:55.

I check my phone to see a message from Matto, who has been out sailing on his Pathfinder TRIM for 10 days or so.  Weather headed our way, rain and gusts over 50 coming the day after tomorrow.  We exchange several messages talking about maybe rafting up in a sheltered spot, looking at Frenchman Bay or Southwest Harbor.  The southwest corner of Southwest Harbor looking like a good spot. 

23.77 NM
 

day five - sunken money

Up at 5:30 after a calm night.  Sounds of gentle surf breaking on the beach came from different directions overnight, telling me that SPARTINA was spinning in swirling winds.  Damp, cool morning.  Light northeast wind.  Foul weather bibs, boots and the wool sweater.

6:10 sail off anchor.  6:20 out of the cove and on Toothacher Bay, 2.1.  There are a series of ledges extending south from Hockamock Head and with a quick look at the charts I head south to round Sheriff Ledge, the southernmost of the rocks.  Watching a lobster boat come out of Burnt Coat Harbor Inlet I see it take a cut through the ledges.  How nice!  I turn southeast and follow the shortcut inside of Gooseberry Island.  

Making 2.5 to Burnt Coat Harbor.  A friendly wave from a lobsterman as we sail beneath Burnt Coat Harbor Light.  7:15 past the light and making a surprising 4.6 in the south end of Burnt Coat Harbor, terns feeding on schools of fish.  Take the narrowest of cuts to the south between two islets called The Hubs to port and submerged rocks to starboard.  Off the northeast shore of Harbor Island at 7:20 as the overcast begins to breakup.

Leaving Swan Island to stern at 7:50, sail towards Sisters Islands off the port bow and Long Island off the starboard bow.  Good to be on open water.  Sailing across gentle rollers, remnants of yesterday's storm.  Tack and Sunken Money Ledge, 1.8 in less wind.  Hook a lobster pot float on the centerboard, raise the board and glad to see the line somehow misses the rudder.  8:30 tack off Sisters Islands, the lobster floats showing a helping flood tide.  8:25 making 5.5 in choppy water.  8:50 2.7 on the rolling waves.  9:20 passing the ledges marked at The Drums as waves break over them.  

10:10 tack to the northwest towards Gott Island, 2.4.  10:35 shifting winds and stalled east of Great Gott and Little Gott Islands, motor sailing.  10:55 heading towards the cut west of Great Cranberry Island, the tide changing and now working against the ebb tide.  12:00 approaching the cut with the sails up but the outboard doing all the work, waves breaking over Cranberry Island Ledge.

12:50 find some wind approaching southwest harbor, 4.1 as the skies clear.  1:30 making 3.7 to the west.

Pass the tour boat AMBERGRIS heading into Southwest Harbor, making 2.7. 

2:20 docked at the Upper Towndock with its two hour limit, walk up to a coffee shop for a glass of iced tea and the chance to use their wifi, smiling at their password of ElvisistheKing.  Walking back to SPARTINA, duck into a bakery and buy a sandwich for dinner.  Cast off from the town dock and anchor just off the dock in shallow water at 4:30.

 22.56 NM

day four - Toothacher Cove

Rain, sometimes heavy, in the night.  Wake at 6:30 to see the storm has slipped off to the north and west.  More wind, fog and possibly wind forecast for the day.  I'll stay put.

Hot chocolate with breakfast, hot tea with lunch.  Nap, read, catch up on the log book.  Fog comes and goes, as does the wind.  

Toothacher Cove provides excellent protection.  Calm water, the occasional car passing on a little road.  Some grinding sounds coming from a small building near a house on shore.  One moored sailboat, one moored powerboat and SPARTINA.  A light dinner of tuna in a bean and corn salad, a cup of fruit and crackers.  Better weather tomorrow.

 

day three - fog at Swans Island

Up at 5:30 after a calm and peaceful night on Squid Cove, just a wonderful deep sleep.  Weather coming tomorrow so I need to find shelter from a northeast wind.  Cool and overcast, wearing foul weather bibs and boots.

Sail off anchor 6:10, a gentle 0.9 down the cove towards Squid Island.  The loud, incessant snoring of a seal, just one of a small colony on the rocks south of Squid Island, makes me smile.  The others sleep in silence.

Rounding the island out onto Mount Desert Narrows, an otter navigates the rocks next to shore.  6:35 round the north end of the island, no wind and drifting so slowly the gps shows 0.0.  I motor at idle speed until the wind returns at 7:00, making 0.8 and very content with that.  Wind comes and goes, motor a bit until the wind returns at 8:00.  1.5 against the flood tide.  8:25 more wind, 2.0.  8:30 more wind and on the beam, 4.0.  

8:40 off the south end of Bartlett Island, Hardwood Island off the starboard bow, 2.5.  

Sunshine breaks through and feels good.  9:15 at the south end of Hardwood Island, Moose Island off the port bow.  9:30, with Seal Cove to the east, 3.8, then 5.0 on open water with wind forward of port beam.

10:00 making 4.2 with Trumpet and Ship Island off the the starboard bow, Ship and Barges Ledge lurking under breaking water off the port bow.   

10:30 making 4.9 in the building wind as overcast moves in and fog begins to crest Swans Island.  Oppechee, Eagle and Black Islands ahead off start to the starboard.  10:40 turn downwind past Black Island into the Casco Passage and immediately fall off into the York Narrows, 3.3 with wind on the stern.

10:55 fog seems to be holding off for now, but overcast and chilly.  3.0 through the narrows.

Working south along the western edge of Swans Island.  12:00 pick out tiny Hat Island and begin a series of tacks, rounding the island and heading east towards Toothacher Bay.  

Colder and damp now, more fog and exposed to the wind and waves.  Fog coming over Swans Island to the east and Marshall Island a dark shadow in the fog to the west.  12:50 past Irish Point in to Toothacher Bay, calmer water but gusts rolling across the bay.    

Two more long tacks past Sand Cove, taking a look at the cove but suspect I'll find more protection in Toothacher Cove.  Once more tack and sail into Toothacher Cove with a large rock to starboard and a sandy beach marked as "Beach near Tim's Market" on the charts.  Anchor down 1:25.

 22.12 NM