day seventeen - the Barred Islands

Quick breakfast at Traci's Diner.  Back at the docks, a charter fishing captain tells me I might be waiting for wind.  "I've checked with the crew, there were no complaints."  As I'm casting off, he realizes I am the only one on board.  The captain laughs, says he now understands why no-one complained.

Sails up 7:15 in the mooring fields with a "Good morning!" from a lobsterman motoring by.  Cool, light northwest wind and not a cloud in the sky.  Making 1.2 and then 2.0 against the flood tide.

7:40 leaving the Passagassawakeag River, 2.6.  7:55 jibe around Steel's Ledge just outside the red markers.  8:50 less wind, 0.2, and motor sailing.  9:55 hints of wind near Turtle Head at the north end of Islesboro.  10:05 sailing at 2.6.

10:50 off Dice Head, 1.7 approaching slack high tide.  11:10 see the tanbark sails of the windjammer ANGELIQUE coming out of Castine Harbor, and remembering when I pass that same ship a couple years ago in a fog so thick that I could not see them until they were 50 yards away.  Wind stirring off Holbrooke Harbor, making 1.8 on a starboard tack.

11:55 more wind.  12:20 on a port tack, 4.0.  Come about at 1:10, 3.6.  1:35 making 4.1.

A long steady run from just off Islesboro's Sabbath Day Harbor to just below Head of the Cape, wonderful sailing on a beautiful day.  

2:00 Western Island to starboard, Navionics showing rocks and shoals reaching out farther than I expected, keeping neighboring Pond Island off the bow.  

2:05 reach Pond Island with light wind, feel like we're crawling over the shallows.  2:30 on a starboard tack across a tide line, the ebb flowing north to south but seems to be wrapping around the two islands.  Confused waters sailing south, keeping the Black Ledges to port.

3:00 off Beach Island.  3:15 tack.  3:25 tack.  3:40 tack.  3:50 tack.  One last tack at 4:00.  4:10 main and jib down, under power through the channel and past the rocks into the Barred Islands anchorage.  4:25 anchor down.

Eating dinner, a man motors over in a dingy from a larger sailboat in the anchorage.  "Is it Steve?" he asks.  "Yes," I tell him.  He introduces himself, Matt Murphy, editor of Wooden Boat Magazine.  He tells me he is a friend of John Welsford's and recognized SPARTINA coming down the channel.  We have an enjoyable discussion about the Pathfinder design and sailing Maine.  He invites me to visit the Wooden Boat School if find myself in that area.  I thank him for coming by, tell him I look forward to visiting the school.

I begin hearing from a couple of other Pathfinder sailors, Matto on TRIM and Bobby on LAGNIAPPE.  We're spread out around East Penobscot Bay, looking for a place to get together.  Perry Cove seems like the place.

 23.51 NM

day sixteen - "that's gorgeous"

The day begins with a man off a large power boat tied up nearby asking how I did in the rain last night.  He asks with a certain smile that makes me wonder if he is expecting me to say it was uncomfortable or wet or whatever.  I respond with my own question.  "Did it rain last night?  I didn't notice."

Breakfast at Traci's Diner, eggs over easy, potatoes, bacon and toast.  A nice change from protein bars and beef sticks.

It is a day of chores...groceries, laundry, shower, the log book.

As I walk back to SPARTINA from Traci's, I see a beautiful schooner in the parking lot.  FELICITY has apparently been out of the water for a couple of months and she is about to be rigged and put in the water.

Off to the laundromat and, after that, a trip to the local co-op to resupply on food - some bottled iced tea, nuts and dried fruit.  Then a walk along the harbor.  Each time I come and go from SPARTINA, I see the progress on FELICITY.  A crane comes in to drop the masts in place, then a rigger up in a harness runs wire stays and rope halyards.  It is a several hour process that draws a crown.

Afternoon I'm back at the pub for iced tea and a chance to catch up on the log book.  

I'm in the parking lot by the harbor master's office as they back FELICITY into the water.  The rigger, who seems to be running the show, stands on the stern of the schooner and calls out instructions to the tow-truck driver and a guy in a skiff.  

At one point he turns around, looks towards SPARTINA and says to no-one in particular, "that's gorgeous!" and then goes back to work.  I smile.

 Late afternoon I am pleased to be tied up near the beautiful FELICITY.  The man on the power boat, the one who asked me about the rain, invites me over for a beer with him and his wife.  It is a nice afternoon.  Then back to the pub for dinner.

day fifteen - north

Up before 6:00, glassy calm morning on a favorite creek.  Straighten up the boat, tuck away sleeping gear, break down the boom tent.  

I motor over to Rich on KELLY RAE, thank him for pointing out the free mooring.  He asks where I am headed today, laughs when I tell him that I am not sure.  I expect to head north, but don't have a specific destination in mind.

Outside of Pulpit Harbor I am surprised to find a light southwest wind.  Sailing at 2.2, headed north and aiming for the south end of Islesboro.  I sailed this same path once before in a thick fog and my memory tells me there is a series of small islands - Goose, Saddle, Lasell, and Lime Islands - that lead from Pulpit Harbor to the cut between Middle Island and Islesboro.  On this clear morning I can see that the string of islands is in fact a couple miles to the west, reminding me how disorienting thick fog can be.

8:50 a decent wind over the port quarter, 3.0.  9:35 Pendleton Point at the south end of Islesboro off the starboard bow, Middle Island ahead.  10:00 past Pendleton Point, Minot Island to port and less wind, making 1.0.

10:00 motor sailing at idle speed, Cradle Cove to port and a group of youngsters getting ready for a race.

Still not sure of where I am heading.  Could be Turtle Head Cove at the north end of Islesboro.  Maybe Belfast, or possibly the nice anchorages near Castine.  Plenty of time to decide.

On Gilkey Harbor a seal makes a series of leaps from the water.  10:50, rounding Spruce Island, can see the ferry dock and beyond that West Penobscot Bay.

Pass the ferry dock, turn north in light wind, motor sailing.  11:20 no wind at all, motoring at idle speed.  Getting hot. Debating going to Turtle Head Cove, a very nice anchorage, versus Belfast, which has laundry, showers and a grocery store.  12:50 wind, sailing.  Then no wind.  

2:15 wind and headed for Belfast.  There is a channel into Belfast, but instead I wind my way through the mooring field, enjoying all the boats along the way.  2:45 main and jib down, under power to the dock.  Tie up by the boat ramp, walk to the harbor master's office where I am pointed to a dock where I can spend the next two nights.

Tied up there, gear tucked away, I walk up to the Front Street Pub for a couple of large tumblers of iced tea.

A favorite town, I walk the waterfront in the evening and see the inexplicable site of a tray of donuts on a dinghy.  I smile and head off to dinner.

 18.4 NM

day fourteen - fog and a false start

If the storms that were forecast for last night arrived, I slept through them.

Wake at 6:00 to fog.  Slip back into the sleeping bag.  Up at 7:00, still foggy.  Tuck away the sleeping gear, break down the boom tent.  Ready to sail, I look at the fog and listen to the tide rushing against the wooden hull.  

9:00 fog clearing.  9:15 under power.  The flood tide has brought enough water to the cut between Birch and High Islands so I motor west to the small fleet of anchored boats.  I am pleased to see MOONLIGHT, I had met the nice folks on that boat a year or two ago.  With regret, I note that they are not around, probably off to hike on one of the islands.

Sails up making 2.9.  I am at a decision point for the trip.  Turn to port, I'll begin heading west to Portland.   Turn to starboard, it will be Penobscot Bay.  I decide to give Portland a try, only to find the wind is failing.  The bow is pointing to the south, my GPS track shows the tide is carrying us backwards.  Turn back to Dix Island.  Pass by MOONLIGHT to find that George and Pam have returned.  Stop for a moment to say hello.  It is good to see them.  I head a little farther into the anchorage and drop anchor.

It is a pleasant morning.  Windless.  But the sun feels good.  I make some tea, take a nap.

I wake to find George and Pam out sailing in their tender, I believe it is the Ellen design and she looks beautiful tacking back and for in the anchorage.  

11:30 raise anchor with wind out of the south.  12:00 Fisherman and Marblehead Islands to port, making 3.5, wind and tide have decided I will not be heading to Portland.  Instead I will explore Penobscot Bay.

12:35 jibe towards to the northwest towards Monroe Island.  Approaching the island, jibe to the northeast to cross Penobscot Bay towards North Haven.  

2:05 North Haven's Stand-In Point off the starboard, steady downwind sailing along the northeast shore of North Haven.  Beautiful sailing.  It must be a weekend day - I've lost track of the days - as there are a lot of small boats out sailing.  And bigger boats too, including the 1927 windjammer J. & E. Riggin.  Pass Wooster Cove, Barlett Harbor with wind over the starboard quarter.

3:00 see the rocky, narrow entrance to Pulpit Harbor. There is a large sloop coming out of the channel, so slack the lines to slow down.  Once the big boat is through, head to the channel, keeping the big rocks to starboard in afternoon gusts.  

Four tacks between the rocks into Pulpit Harbor, the a short run before making a couple quick tacks to Minsters Creek.  Drop the main and the jib, under power.  In the past I've anchored up in the shallows past the mooring field.  Heading that way, a man on the sloop KELLY RAE asks if I'm looking for a mooring.  I tell him I'm not, but I'll take one if one is available.  He points me to an empty mooring across the creek.

Tied to the mooring 3:30.  Boom tent up to get out of the sun.  Relax, cook dinner.  The man who pointed me to the mooring rows over and introduces himself as Rich.  A nice guy, we have an enjoyable visit.

 16.17 NM

day thirteen - fog, thunderstorms and a late start

Up at 6:00 with big plans to leave Penobscot Bay and begin working my way to Portland.  Sleeping gear tucked away quickly, I begin to strike the boom tent.  As I do so, I see a wall of fog coming up the cove.  Thick, thick fog.  I put the boom tent back in place, get out the Jetboil and make a cup of tea.  I'm not going anywhere for a while.

I look at the charts.  If the fog clears quickly (doubtful) maybe I can make it around Whitehead Island to Port Clyde.  I check the weather.  Fog, then thunderstorms.  

8:00 thunder mixed with fog horns.  8:45 heavy rain, very glad not to be sailing.  Drift off to sleep. Wake at 10:30, the storms have moved on.  Gustly east wind rolls through the cove.  Break down the boom tent, tuck away the gear.  Put two reefs in the main.  Sail off anchor 11:40 under mizzen and jib.  

12:00 outside of Long Cove, raise the double-reefed main. Wind dropping quickly.  12:10 round up to shake out both reefs.  Full sail.  Sailing 2.8 west through the ledges on the far side of Dogfish Island.

1:00 doing 3.0 to the southwest, wind over the port quarter, crossing Penobscot Bay.  1:40 pick out Fisherman and Marblehead Islands.  Lighter wind, sailing at 2.6.

2:50 light winds sailing south into Dix Island Harbor.  Begin a series of tacks just above tiny Spectacle Island.  Another tack just west of Little Pond Island.  

Another one between Great  Pond Island and High Island. It is approaching low tide and the rocks on either side of the channel show themselves well.

Tacks become shorter.  I suspect the tide has turned and we are working against the start of the flood tide.  

Last few tacks are rock to rock, a favorite kind of sailing.  Looking west I see the masts of boats anchored on the far side of Birch Island.  I wonder about heading that way but this close to low tide the channel between Birch and High Islands is too shallow.  I settle for the quiet harbor surrounded by islands.  Anchor down 3:40 as the fog rolls in.

 9.96 NM

day twelve - west, foggy afternoon

Up at 5:30.  Straighten up the boat, a bit of a mess from the late evening on LOON.  Motor to the dock to drop off trash.  Cast off 6:25.  Motor through the mooring field, out of Seal Cove at 6:35 and not a breath of wind.  Broken overcast.

7:00 sun breaks through the clouds.  Tinker Island to starboard, 7:10 cutting across the shallow, rocky south end of the island.  7:55 Pond Island with tiny Lamp Island to port.  A helping ebb tide but still no sign of wind.  8:15 passing the east end of Eggemoggin Reach with a school of porpoise to starboard.  

8:25 a tiny puff of wind and then nothing.  9:50 in Deer Isle Thorofare, a hint of wind now and then but nothing consistent.  10:25 docked at the Stonington Public Dock, walk up to 44 North Coffee for some iced tea, a muffin and some high speed internet to catch up with friends.  11:30 cast off from the dock and motor to the fuel dock just a bit west down the thorofare.  As I top off the fuel can, the man in the shack reminds me that his place is the ONLY place to get fuel on Deer Isle.  

11:50 cast off from fuel dock.  Raise sails 12:15 west end of the thorofare with a teasing south breeze.  Guy passing by on the large parked hulled sloop DEFIANT tells me he is hoping for wind for me, but the forecast does not look promising.  I aim the bow towards the wind turbines on Vinalhaven.  

There is a light south wind, motorsailing west with towering clouds in the distance.  Soon overcast and a slight chill.  

1:00 motorsailing with engine at idle speed, 3.0 at red marker "3" and headed towards Fox Island Thorofare.  

1:35 an eagle perched on Channel Rock with Stimpson Island to starboard and Calderwood Neck to port.  I'm frustrated with the lack of wind and the motorsailing.  Looking to the stern, with Isle au Haut in the distance, I see a dozen, maybe 15 sailboats - all kinds of sailboats, small and large - headed west towards me, everyone of them under power.

1:45 no wins at all, under power with the sails up.  Into Fox Island Thorofare I find it is very crowded with windjammers, huge yachts and power boats.  Suddenly chilly, then warm again.  Dark clouds overhead but not threatening.  1:55 friendly waves from the spectacular Herreshoff ketch TICONDEROGA. Chilly again and then a warm breeze fills in as the dark clouds move on.  Sailing!  

Make several tacks working west down the thorofare.  Lots of traffic and sometimes lose ground as we fall off for traffic.  Fun and enjoyable sailing.  Sailboats, powerboats and windjammers all around.   Making 3.2 in a nice breeze.

West end of the Thorofare...fog.  A wall of fog sliding up from the south.  My hopes of crossing Penobscot Bay to the Dix Harbor anchorage disappear in the fog.

The Fox Ears, two tiny islands just south red marker "22" are shrouded in fog.  The same with sailboats coming up the channel to North Haven.  

A loud blast gets me attention as a car ferry from Rockland emerges from the whiteness.  Another horn, this time a ferry coming up from the south.  I check the gps to confirm I'm safely out of the channel.

4:20 tacking just off the shore.  4:35 thicker fog, navigating with GPS and Navionics past rocks unseen.  Find the cut that leads us around Crockett Point.  A dark shape to the west, Dogfish Island.  Follow the shore into Crockett Cove, fog clearing along the way.  Anchor down 5:00.

31.14 NM