days nineteen and twenty - Tilghman Island

Morning comes with a fine breakfast of eggs and toast courtesy Michael and Sheila.  They are soon off to run some important errands, and I am more than happy to clean up the galley as they leave.  It is the least I could do for all their hospitality.

Cast off 9:30.  Sails up with a double reefed main at 9:45.  Chilly with a brisk northwest wind.

9:55 on the Tred Avon River, making 4.3.

I get a text from Caden with a video of SPARTINA on the river, he must have spotted us from somewhere on the Oxford waterfront.  I thank him.  Shake out the second reef.

11:00 passing Benoni Point.  I look at the little marsh at the point and think about the shelter it gave me just a few days earlier in the vicious wind and waves.  

The wind is good and strong, sailing close hauled and I begin tacking towards Nelson Point at the mouth of Broad Creek.

With wind over the starboard bow I am surprised by a splash of water coming from the port sides.  I glance left to see it came from a small school of dolphin swimming alongside SPARTINA.

12:00 I can pick out the channel markers for Knapp Narrows.  It has been nearly three weeks since I passed the the narrows at the start of the cruise, somehow it seems much longer than that.

12:50 calmer water near Tilghman Island.  Making 4.1 to the entrance channel.  1:10 sails down and under power.  I call the bridge tender and get a lift without even having to slow down.  1:25 docked at Knapp's Narrows Marina and Inn.  Splurge a big and get a room for the night.

14.27 NM

So it is the usual, as with any stay on the waterfront.  Clean up, shower and shave.  Catch up on the log.  Charge batteries.

Also time to pack some breakfast and lunches for the coming days.  

Day twenty comes with strong north winds and I don't feel like beating into the waves all day.  I give up my room but keep the slip, I'll sleep on SPARTINA and be ready to go the next morning.

I get a message from Michael and Sheila, I had left a small mesh bag on their boat.  I tell them if they can use it, keep it.  If not, then just toss it.  They respond there will be no tossing of anything and suggest they bring it to me at Tilghman Island.

They claim they have always wanted to visit the island, and bringing me the little bag is no problem.  So they make the drive and arrive just in time for a lunch of sandwiches at Tilghman Island Country Store.  And then we take a tour of the island, from Black Walnut Point to Dogwood Harbor with the fleet of deadrises and skipjacks.  It is good to see Michael and Sheila again.  

Evening, a sandwich and a beer from the country store on the patio of the now closed Marker 5.  A good forecast for tomorrow.

 

days seventeen and eighteen - morning sail, rafted up

Sleep late.  Chilly and the wind still gusting.  Wake to blue skies.  No rush to go anywhere.

Sail off anchor 9:10, sail down the Tred Avon towards Oxford.  Still windy and rough, turn back up the Tred Avon to explore.

It's a pleasant morning tacking upriver, plenty of wind but it is sometimes blocked by stands of tall trees on shore.  Playing the wind on the gentle curves of the river, it is quite a change from yesterday.  Late morning near Shipshead Creek, turn back for a nice run downriver.  Just past Bailey's Neck turn to port on Triple Creek.  Pass the first cove and then in the second I see a white-hulled ketch with blue trim, Sheila waving from the cockpit and Michael on the docks to help with lines.  How nice.  Rafted up with my cruising friends at noon.

Just in time for lunch.  I always seem to meet my world cruising friends just in time for a good meal.

Michael and Sheila are tied up on Snug Harbor at the dock of friends Rob and Penelope.  I am graciously welcomed into the group for a couple days.  

I've known world cruisers Michael and Sheila for many years now, with planned and unplanned meetings at several creeks, rivers and harbors over the years, mostly on Chesapeake Bay but even as far away as Portugal.  It is a treat to see them.

So it is a couple of days of good company, good meals, running errands, cleaning gear, meeting more friends and enjoying a life I find myself surprised to have found.

 

day sixteen - red sky at morning

7:05 dead calm in the little cove surrounded by trees, motor out of the wind shadow onto Hudson Creek.  There is a front coming through today with gusts forecast tot the mid- 20s.  So I have a plan and I think it is a good one.  

With the morning's forecast of wind in west wind at 15 mph I can easily sail into the wind to Hills Point.  Should the front and associated gusts arrive before I get there, I can turn back downwind to Hudson Creek or other anchorages on the Little Choptank.  If I make it to Hills Point before the gusts arrive, I'm in good shape and can easily reduce sail to mizzen and jib and sail comfortably downwind to the Tred Avon.  I have found SPARTINA sails well under mizzen and jib across the wind or downwind with gusts in the high 20 mph range.

7:25 catch the wind on Hudson Creek.  7:25 on the Little Choptank, 2.5 kts.  8:30 wind filling in, making 5.2.  8:30 round Ragged Island, 5.0.  9:00 Tilghman Island in sight the north.  

9:10 round Hills Point.  9:30 forecast gusts arrive.  I consider taking in a reef or two, but with the downhill run and a short sail across the Choptank, I bring down the main, sailing with mizzen and jib.  I point the bow towards Cook Point.  

And then the wind and waves build beyond my expectations.  Gusts feel like they are over 30, which I think I can deal will.  But the waves are big and steep and leave no room for error. 

I look ahead and can see the trees at Cook Point, and then I remember the shoals that reach out from the point.  I keep the wind aft of port beam until I can clearly see the waves breaking on the shoal.  Get past the shoal and turn downwind towards Oxford.

The river is called Choptank for a reason.  The waves are tall, maybe four feet or so, and very close together.  Wind and waves are on the port quarter, waves slapping the hull and sending the water flying.  Lots of spray, almost constant spray.  I'm wearing just my foul weather bibs and getting soaked.  My hat flies off in the wind.  I want to put on my foul weather jacket but don't dare leave the tiller.  

I see two big sail boats out on the river, both pounding in the waves and wonder why they are out there.   Then I wonder why I am out there.

Cold and wet, I get some relief when I can pick out the water tower at Oxford.  SPARTINA is handling the waves well, she is really proving herself in this weather.  

10:20 is see a low patch of marsh that sits off Benoni Point.  We aim just below the point.  10:50 rounding Benoni Point, the wind is still with us but the waves are instantly gone.  Sigh of relief.

Anchor down in a little cove at Pecks Point, trees blocking the wind.  

Set up the boom tent, get out of the wet clothes.  The sun comes out and it turns into a pretty day.  I think about the sail and what I did right or wrong.   That the wind exceeded the forecast, I don't know what I could have done about that.  But with the front forecast to come through I should have been wearing the drysuit.  My plan was a good one, and I guess it worked.  It was just rougher than I had expected.  

I dry out my gear, read and relax.  And think about those waves and how much I can trust my boat.

19.77 NM 

day fifteen - wind on the stern

6:55, sails up before the sun on a pretty morning.  The sand spit at the north end of the creek is easily visible as we skirt it out on to Daugherty Creek.  7:00 jibe to Tangier Sound.

Navionics shows a course of 320 degrees to Hooper Island Strait.  Out on Tangier Sound 7:30 making 5.1 with wind over the port quarter.  7:50 tuck in a reef, 5.7 in building wind.  8:35 tuck in second reef.  Much more comfortable. 

Deal Island to starboard, making 5.5.  Trees on the horizon to the north, maybe Bishops Head.  8:50 see a tug and barge to the north, make a point of keeping an eye on them.  It takes a few minutes to conclude they are anchored.

9:20 Bloodsworth Island to port, 4.9.  10:15 enter Hooper Island Strait, rougher water as waves roll up Chesapeake Bay.  10:45 off the south end of Lower Hooper Island, 4.3 in choppy water.  Less wind and waves than I had expected.

11:15 shake out the second reef.  11:25 shake out the first reef, full sail.  12:20 wind fades to a light breeze, motorsailing.  

With lighter wind on the stern rig up an extension for the main sheet so I can put the main right up against the shroud when headed downwind.  Seems to work well.

1:10 off Barren Island and the wind returns.  3.2 wing and wing.  2:00 with a helping tide, make 3.6.  

Stronger wind and making 4.8 at 3:10.  That main sheet extension lets me expose more of the sail to the wind.  

4:00, doing 6.6 sailing down building waves approaching Oyster Cove.  Jibe into the Little Choptank as we get a few stronger guests.  4:20 bring down the main, sailing under mizzen and jib.  

5:15 in Hudson Creek, my anchorage from just a few days ago.  I pass by a larger boat and they tell me they are stuck on a shoal.  I tell them I don't know what I can do, but I'm willing to help.  The sailor asks if I would kedge out a large anchor so they can pull themselves off the shoal.  I do, and with a wave they let me know they are free.  Anchor down in the little cove near the cemetery 5:45.

 45.23 NM

day fourteen - headed back north

Morning comes calm and clear at the wharf in Onancock.  7:05 mizzen raised, motoring down the creek with a day-old blueberry donut that tastes fine.  8:10 out of the creek, sails up.  A nice west wind, not a cloud in the sky.

Making 4.3 to the north, wind helps me to choose going south of Watts Island as opposed to going inside of the island and then finding the cut through the shoal that runs from Watts Island to Fox Island.  

8:30 3.6 towards Watts Island.  9:30 reach the south end of Watts, doing 4.0.  Just past the island, fall off to the north.

12:30 can pick out Smith Island to port, less wind and making 2.1.  Easy sailing and lots of sunshine so I experiment with using the new four-panel solar charger to charge a small 10,000mAh travel battery.  The battery fits nicely in the charger pocket of the solar panel and seems to charge quickly.  Very pleased with the set up.

1:00 heading north at 2.9 and thinking about where we'll anchor for the night.  2:10 wing and wing, 1.8.  Decide to head to a cove at the top of Janes Island at the mouth of the Big Annemessex River.  2:20 motor sailing.  3:35 rounding Flatcap Point into Daugherty Creek, a white sandy beach lining the marsh.  

A few tacks into the creek, anchor down 4:20.  An unexpectedly beautiful anchorage.

 28.75 NM

day thirteen - off day in Onancock

A day off from sailing in Onancock.  But still plenty of work to do.  Almost two weeks out so it is a good time for resupply, cleaning and drying out.

Plus I enjoy the town.  Interesting shops.  Lots of folks dropping by the wharf to say hello.

A chance to recharge the power packs.

Pastries at the bakery for breakfast.  An excellent crab salad at Mallard's for lunch.

Refill the water bottles.

Enjoying some iced tea in a coffee shop while I catch up on the log and watch guests that don't always follow the rules.

 And one last stop for the day, a visit to the bakery to pick up a couple of donut for tomorrow morning.