under the volcano

Morning came with a beautiful and interesting lenticular cloud over the Arenal Volcano. 

And how about a nice swim with the Pilgrim in the thermal springs that flow from the volcano. 

Some local food last night, whole fried snapper.  Excellent!

 

a little pandemonium, a little peace

We’re in there somewhere.  

 

living like a sloth

…and loving every second of it.  Having a wonderful time in Costa Rica.  Tomorrow, the volcano. 

 

turn up the volume

 and listen to the rain forest. 

this trip, the next and the one after that.

The trip went quicker than had I expected.  It always does.  There were a couple places I had wanted to visit - Brunswick for one, and also the St. Johns below Palatka - but through good luck I had the chance to see a brother if I made it to Palatka by a certain date.  And it was worth missing some sailing to see him, it had been too long.

The temperatures were colder and the tides stronger than past trips.  I was pleased to find I had the gear to deal with 40 degree temperatures.  And I was surprised by the stronger tides that I found by casting off a week closer to the new moon.  

A favorite evening was one I did not intend to spend on Hilton Head.  I arrived at Skull Creek mid-morning on Sunday, Superbowl Sunday in fact, and had looked forward to seeing Webb that day and the next, leaving Hilton Head on Tuesday.  But Tuesday came with strong winds that went on longer than expected.  Webb kindly welcomed me for the extra day.  Instead of pounding into the wind and tide, we walked to Hudson Seafood for a late afternoon dinner, then spent the evening enjoying drinks and conversation on the porch.  It was very enjoyable.  

It was a treat to see Kelli across the water as she set off with her husband for a yacht delivery.  A friendly wave on the Skidaway River was perfect. ( I am probably at my best when taken in small doses, and from a distance.)

A birthday on Lincoln Creek, filling in the logbook as I enjoyed a couple of Red Stripe beers, made me smile.  I am in the second half of my sixties.  It is good to be active, and I think sailing 385 miles in a little boat that I built qualifies as being active.

The photograph above, leaving Jove Creek on my way to Jekyll Island, is one of my favorites of the trip.  A perfect morning with good wind and a rushing tide.

The sail into Jacksonville always marks the beginning of the end of the trip.  It was a long day, but an excellent day.  Sometimes it is good to be hungry and tired.

Many thanks to Pete in Charleston.  He always keeps an eye on me, and stores my truck and trailer too.  Thank you, Pete.

Thanks also to Bobby in Palatka who offered a free dock if the marina was full like last year.

The Pilgrim and I are off in a day or so for a trip to Costa Rica, a week in the rain forest and a week on a Pacific Beach.  I am looking forward to the warm temperatures.  The Pilgrim is looking forward to hiking, plus the coffee and cacao farms.  

Around the first of May I'll begin the spring trip in North Carolina.

Maybe being retired isn't so bad after all.

day eighteen - the last leg

Calm night, no more rain after I climbed into the sleeping bag.  Sail off anchor 7:05, cold morning (again).  I note the weather app shows good wind through the morning, the strong gusts in the afternoon.

Making 3.1 down Doctors Inlet, wind over the port quarter.  8:40 pass under the bridge and out onto the St. Johns River.

Wind now on the starboard quarter, 3.2. More wind at 9:15, 5.5.  10:00 rounding Popo Point, turning to the southeast.  Red marker 18 shows a helping flood tide.  10:55 jibe.

Lighter wind, making 2.0 with the tide.  Wind fills in and making 3.7.  12:30 more wind, 4.2.  Gusts beginning to arrive.  

12:45 round up and tuck in a double reef, 4.1.  1:15 a series of strong gusts, 5.2.  Round up and bring down the main.  Sailing mizzen and jib.  1:30 making a steady 5.3, 6.4 in the gusts.  

A small tug-style cruiser comes up alongside. I see the captain looking at SPARTINA, just the two small sails up and he can't seem to understand how we are making almost six knots.  He shakes his head, throttles up and passes on by.

5:35 make the final turn south at Forrester Point, the bridge at Palatka comes into sight.  We are racing the setting sun.  Slip under the bridge as the sun drops below the horizon. 

 6:35 anchor down just off the docks in Palatka.  The trip is done.

39.75 NM for the day

334.65 nautical miles / 385 miles for the cruise

 

day seventeen - storm warning

Light ran at dawn.  Go back to sleep.  Wake to a calm, clear morning.  Hot chocolate and granola with blueberries for breakfast.  Forecast show wind and rain coming midday.  Not going anywhere today.

Wind arrives about noon.  Strong, gusty wind.  Read, nap, catch up with family on the phone.

Late afternoon thunderstorm warnings.  A little less wind.  Cloudy evening.

Storms arrive just after sunset.  Strong wind, heavy rain.  The anchor holds well.  Climb into the sleeping bag and go to sleep.

 

day sixteen - glassy

Sunrise.  48 degrees.  Boom tent and side decks covered in dew.  Patches of fog on the river.  Windless.

Under power 7:20, following the St. Johns through downtown Jacksonville.  

8:00 out of downtown, the river turns south and opens up wide.  Water is like glass.  Motoring at just above idle, making 5.8 with the flood tide carrying us as much as the outboard.  

10:05 turn west towards Doctors Inlet.  10:20 pass under the bridge into the inlet, turn towards a marina.  There I meet the world's nicest dock hand.  He welcomes me, takes some photographs of SPARTINA, helps move us over to the fuel dock to top off the gas can.  I ask if there is a place I can get food nearby.  He tells me the only place is a convenience store and he'll be happy to give me a ride there in a golf cart.  I tell him thanks but I could use a good walk.

After a run to the store, cast off and motor southwest - still windless - to an anchorage marked Swimming Pen Creek.  Anchor down in the well-protected cove 12:15.

Set up the boom tent to get out of the sun.  The Italian sub from the convenience store turns out to be excellent.  I add a drizzle of olive oil to the bread and enjoy a nice lunch with chips and a bottled iced tea.  Nap, catch up on the log.  Set up the sleeping gear.

19.86 NM
 

day fifteen - the last sound

Morning comes clear and crisp.  46 degrees and a strong enough north wind that I tie in a single reef.  Sail off anchor 7:20.  Working against the ebb tide I round up and shake out the reef.  Making 4.2 leaving the Amelia River.   I notice the red navigation markers are back on the right side to starboard.  

7:50 making 4.6 are the river curves to the south.  Less wind and against the tide, gps shows 2.8 kts.  

8:35 pass the railroad trestle and slip under the bridge.  Quickly see I've crossed the head of the tide and making 5.0 with the now helpful ebb tide.

I see the tug LINDY LOU coming up on my stern.  I radio the captain and identify myself.  I can't get out of the channel, there is no room, so I tell him I'll sail as close to the red side as I can.  He responds, says "I'll give you a slow pass."  I thank him.  

Passing Red 28 making 5.5 kts with wind and tide at my back.  8:55 strong gusts.  There is a barge and tug coming up from the south, not enough time to reef so I round up, bring down the main and tie it to the boom.  Plenty of wind, who needs a mainsail?  Making 5.7 mizzen and jib.

10:05 enter Nassau Sound.  10:20 deep enough water that I can cut across the shoal to head south.  

10:25 the water is boiling as tides collide at the mouth of Clapboard Creek.  In the creek. round up and drop anchor in the mouth of Gunnison Creek between a shoal and the marsh.  Raise a single reefed main, raise the anchor and back out on Clapboard Creek.  Making 3.3 against the opposing ebb tide.  

11:00 see a ketch, the MORGANA out of New Orleans.  She seems to just freeing herself from a shoal.  I am almost even with the boat when she becomes free and could easily pass her.  But I worry that she'll be on my stern the length of the creek.  I turn to port to let her get ahead.  The captain thinks I'm coming over to say hello but I just wave to him to keep on going, I want to be behind her as I figure she'll be picking up speed.   

12:00 Sisters Creek Bridge in sight over the marsh.  12:50 pass beneath the bridge, 1:00 on the St. Johns River.  Making 3.1 against the ebb.  1:25 a series of strong gusts, round up to tie in the second reef.  Making 3.2.

1:50 I see a ship heading up the channel behind us.  I am far enough ahead that I can cross to the green side and get completely out of the channel.  Two more ships and a couple of tug boats pass by, we keep to the south outside the channel, plenty of room.  

3:10 shake out the second reef.  3:50 round the bend at Green 57, can see the buildings of downtown Jacksonville.  Making 3.0.  4:25 crossing a tide line.  Steady sailing south, wind over the port quarter.  5:45 round up at the southern end of Exchange Island and motor into the anchorage.  Anchor down at 6:00 just as it gets dark.  Tired, hungry.

 34.97 NM

day fourteen - crossing into Florida

Cast off at 7:35, light north wind and a helping ebb tide.  Making 2.7 on a pretty morning.

Light wind comes and goes, sailing, motor sailing.  8:20 on St. Andrews Sound.  8:25 turn at Red 30, 8:30 round the shoal.

Feeling more wind but now have an opposing tide.  8:45 at Green 35 crossing a tide line with swirling waters.   9:45 Cumberland River.  A little wind but not enough to work against the tide, motorsailing.

10:30 Brickhill River.  Sailing, motorsailing as wind comes and goes. Finally more wind and sailing, 2.4 to 3.0.  Cruiser anchored out, I sail nearby but don't see anyone on board.

11:25 better wind, 3.7.  Live oaks and Spanish moss to port, mud banks and marsh grass to starboard.  

12:10 The Dividings with the Cumberland River so close I could throw a rock to it but can get there by water.  Shoals exposed by low tide.  A powerboat slows down for me, so close I can say "thank you" to the captain.  

1:00 leaving the Brickhill River, low tide and very shallow, both cb and rudder touch bottom.  Raise both and the north wind blows us across the shallows.  Cumberland River, making 2.9 and getting warmer.  1:30 doing 3.5 against the flood tide, then 4.1 with wind over the port quarter.  More wind, 5.0 approaching the submarine base.  Chilly sitting in the shade of the main.  This stretch of water is confusing to me.  Navigation aids and range markers for the submarines.  A lot of red and green across the river.  I check Navionics to see I'm out of the channel and over the shallows.  Turn to the southeast for deeper water.  Some of my confusion is explained as I realize the red and green markers have switched side.  Now I get it.  

3:40 plenty of wind at St. Mary's River.  Gusting up as we cross into Florida.  I think about rounding up and tucking in a reef, but keep the full main.  

Doing 4.2 on calmer water inside of Amelia Island.  Less wind and easier sailing.  Round up and bring down main and jib off a marina, want to see if I can top off my fuel can.  They tell me their pump is out of order.  No problem, I still have plenty of fuel.  

Slip across the Amelia River behind a marsh.  Two local boats anchored out, otherwise have the anchorage to myself.  Anchor down 4:30.

29.87 NM