day twenty - pounding into the waves

Sail off anchor 7:30, not a cloud in the sky.  Cold, strong north wind.  Borderline sailing with gusts out of the north at 24.  I can sail cross wind or down wind up to 28, but 24 into the wind?  Not sure.  Full sail, wearing dry suit with a wool sweater underneath.  

7:40 jibe on to the Little Choptank, making 5.0 with wind on the beam.  7:30 round up off of Brooks Creek, tuck in the first reef.  

8:15 tack, 8:25 tack, making 3.8 somewhat in the lee of Hills Point.  8:40 tack.  8:55 tack.

8:55 tack, leaving the lee of Hills Point, making 4.5 getting full force of the wind and waves.  9:10 tack.  Getting lots of spray on board and see water accumulating forward on the bunk flat and in the cockpit.

9:45 tack and pass Hills Point.  10:00 tack, 10:30 tack.  I can and do bail out the cockpit while sailing.  I cannot leave the tiller to bail out the bunk flat.  With each tack, water sloshes from one side to the other.  The water lifts the watertight duffels off the deck, and whatever I have tucked behind the duffels - normally secure there  - slides out with the water.  Dock lines, water bottles, sponges, the fish cleaning board swash port to starboard and back as I come about.  Even that orange that I had tucked away for a mid-morning snack.

11:00 tack, 4.4.  11:20 tack, pick out a green marker at the mouth of Black Walnut Harbor.  11:40 tack.  11:55, tack, less wind.  12:15 a final tack towards the harbor.  

12:50 main and jib down, under power.  I motor up the narrow channel and a branch to turns to the west.  Too shallow and too many pilings.  Must have been crab shanties or maybe docks here back in the day.  Turn back east and then north on the main channel.  

Anchor down 1:15.  Spend the afternoon drying out and re-organizing all the gear up on the bunk flat.  Put up the boom tent and relax in the evening.

 24.04 NM

day nineteen - waiting, watching

Wake in the little cove to clear skies and a lot of wind.  I would love to sail.  In fact I have a lot of friends who will be out on the water in the Great Chesapeake Schooner Race.  They should be passing by the Little Choptank early to mid-afternoon and I had hoped to sail within sight of the fleet.  They can handle the wind gusting to 29.  I can't.  So I take a weather day.

At least it is not raining.  Tuck the sleeping gear away, open the port side of the boom tent, put out the solar panel to charge batteries.  The boat is still dirty from the nor'easter, so it is a good time to clean up and dry out.  And plan the next few days.  

Read, sleep and relax.  Checking in on the race's tracking page, I see the VIRGINIA is doing very well, keeping a slight lead ahead of their Chesapeake Bay rival PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II.  

Evening comes with stronger gusts and a forecast of more north wind tomorrow.  

thank you, "Anonymous"

I received some comments from Anonymous that answered a couple of questions I have had this year.  Certainly two different readers, I thank them both for the information. (If you look at the comment at the bottom of this post you will see that it is actually the same reader with both bits of information.  Thank you, Anonymous!)

The first comment was with yesterday's post day eighteen - back across the Bay.  It said "Google: w sapphire bulk carrier explosion, to have an idea of why the ship may not be going anywhere soon. A good thing that no one was hurt."  I had wondered why the ship W SAPPHIRE was sitting still on or near the shipping channel as I was leaving Solomons Island.  I think these photographs explain why.  According to a news report...

"The US Coast Guard and local partners are responding to an explosion aboard the 751-foot Liberia-flagged bulk carrier W-Sapphire in Baltimore Harbor."

"Responders from Coast Guard Sector Maryland - National Capital Region were dispatched to the area to assist. No injuries have been reported, and the cause of the explosion is under investigation."

The explosion occurred in Baltimore Harbor August 18 of this year.  I saw the ship in the distance about two months later.  Checking marine traffic just now, I see she is still anchored in the same spot.  In fact there is another ship tied right alongside.  Coal being offloaded?  I concur with anonymous on it being a good thing, pretty amazing in fact, that no one was hurt.

------------------------------------------

The second answer from anonymous came from my curiosity about a boat I saw in Maine.  From the post "day twenty - hard sailing at Devil Island".....

"Off to the north see a small interesting vessel in the distance.  A scow-like yellow hull, tanbark sails on a junk rig.  There has got to be a story there, but won't get close enough to find out."

Anonymous wrote "Winter is coming, and I am enjoying reading about your various cruises. One observation caught my eye, a sighting of a yellow boat. Perhaps it was the Great Auk (see links below). Yes there is a back story here. Thanks for your postings. 

https://sailingauklet.com. https://maineboats.com/print/issue-193/junk-journeys"

Visiting the website, I see there are a couple of boats mentioned, AUKLET and GREAT AUK.

I did not get close enough to get a photograph, but I am almost positive that it is the GREAT AUK being sailed by Shemaya Laurel of Gouldsboro, Maine.  From here blog Sailing AUKLET....

"The boat: Bolger designed glasshouse Chebacco, 20 feet long, fitted out for extended trips.  Primary interests: saltwater coastal – and perhaps offshore – cruising, and working out the details of seasteading.  Foraging and growing vegetables aboard, water catching, and improving my abysmal fishing skills.  Traditional rigs and methods, and ways to make things work with the most ease, and the most security…"
 

Yes, there is definitely an interesting story there.  Maybe SPARTINA and GREAT AUK will cross paths someday and I'll get to learn more about the story.  Thank you, Anonymous.

day eighteen - back across the Bay

Sail off anchor at 7:10, light NW wind, light overcast giving way to blue skies.  SPARTINA is just one, the smallest one, in a string of boats heading out of Solomons Island.  Cruising sailboats and trawlers, some head south around the shoal, others taking the channel north of the shoal.  I take the channel on the north side along with the trawler GRIN.  7:50 light wind and motorsailing towards Drum Point.  Lots of chop, maybe wind against tide.  

8:20 sailing.  Approaching the shipping channel I see the a large ship in the channel to the south.  I can just see the superstructure of the ship, but can't tell if it is moving north or south.

I watch the ship for a while.  Usually it is obvious which way a ship is headed, but not this one.

I check AIS on my phone to see that it is the W SAPPHIRE and, for whatever reason, it is not moving.  I check AIS multiple times to confirm.  8:45 cross the markers on to the shipping channel.  Sailing into the wind and waves, lots of spray coming over the bow.  9: 25 sail out of the channel on the eastern side.

9:40 the waves seems small, sailing a bit easier.  9:50 see the first crab pot float.  We're in shallow water on the eastern side of the Bay.  See one deadrise working a string of crab pots.  10:00 begins a series of tacks.  10:30 tack, 4.5, 10:45 tack, 11:15 tack, 11:30 tack, 11:45 tack and we've made our way far enough to the north that I get a glimpse of Hills Point at the moth of the Little Choptank River.  12:00 tack behind a shoal and find calmer water there.

12:15 tack, 12:30 tack, making 4.5.  12:45 tack towards Oyster Cove. Good wind, smaller waves, making 3.3.  1:20 a last tack towards the Little Choptank.

1:30 in the Little Choptank, 2:20 making 3.7 towards Hudson Creek.  Wind picks up and making 4.4 across calm water.  Cut across the shallows well inside of the channel marker.  3:00 a last series of short tacks into Hudson Creek, getting friends waves from two cruising sailboats out of Annapolis.  3:15 anchor down in a little cove inside Casson Neck.  

30.57 NM 

day seventeen - and just like that

Morning comes with a cold drizzle.  Dampness everywhere.  And I had forgotten to put the line around the mast to wick away the water running down into SPARTINA.  So more water in the boat, just a couple cups of water, but enough to get a corner of the bivy and sleeping bag wet.  Put on the drysuit.  Tuck away the sleeping gear, I'll have to deal with it later.

10:30 I hear tires crunching down a gravel road, then a voice calling out.  "Are you ok?"  I look out the back of the boom tent to see a man standing on a dock.  He must live in one of the homes up on the cliff.  I tell him I am fine, just waiting out the weather.  And I thank him.

12:15 I hear another voice shouting out the same question.  "Are you ok?"  I can't blame them for checking on me, a little boat in a tiny cove for three stormy days.  "I am fine, thank you for checking on me."

1:00 something changes.  Cool, dry air seeps into the boom tent.  Instantly the atmosphere feels different.  And just like that, the storm is gone.  

I quickly start tucking away gear - the books, the stove, the cup for hot tea - and break down the boom tent.  The small craft warning has not expired yet, so I tuck in two reefs just in case.  

1:25 sail off anchor, goodbye to Rollins Cove!  The boat is messy, and there is mud up forward from the anchor.  Not happy about that.  And a little swarm of flies arrives.  But I am happy just to be sailing.  Outside the cove the water is calm, shake out the second reef.  Making 2.6 down St. Leonards Creek.

1:50 3.7 with wind over the port quarter.

2:25 slip out onto the Patuxent River, shake out the second reef.  A bit of blue sky mixed with the overcast.  2:55 I can pick out the marker at Patience Point as some dark overcast moves back in.  3:15 round Patience Point.  Pleased to see the tide is running my way, doing 5.8 with good wind and the helpful tide.  

A gusty run to Solomons Island, more and more blue skies showing to the north.

Rounding Sandy Point into the channel to Solomons Island, we turn up into the wind.  Make several tacks between the point and the shoal, then one last tack below Ship point into the anchorage.  

Anchor down 4:15 Solomons Island.  Set up the boom tent, spread out the sleeping gear to dry.  Enjoy the first bit of sunshine that I have seen in a few days.

9.6 NM

days fourteen through sixteen - the nor'easter and the wood stove

The nor'easter arrives with rain at 8:45 on day fourteen, a light but steady rain.  Gusty, swirling winds arrive at noon.

I struggle to get a cell connection, when I do connect I see the storm is bringing wind and rain to much of the East Coast.

A more detailed look tells me I will be tucked into Rollins Cove for a couple of days.

It is a day of hot tea, granola, napping, reading.  The air is filled with moisture, I wear my dry suit to stay warm and comfortable.  I am pleased with the idea of wrapping a rope around the main mast.  It has eliminated that bit of water that trickles down the mast into the boat.

----------------------------

Day fifteen, more swirling winds in the early morning hours.  11:00 rain and gusts.12:00 heavy rains.  I sort and repack food for the next few days.  Clean up and organize the boat.  Read, nap, relax.

-------------------

Early morning day sixteen an elusive cell signal brings me a weather alert.  Gale warning expiring at 8:00 a.m., small craft advisory through tomorrow morning. Less moisture in the air and I don't put on the dry suit.  Hot tea, hot breakfast.  I am not going sailing today, but the idea of motoring to Kent's place on the next cove is a possibility.  I send Kent a text. 

There is no reply from Kent.  Late morning the rain has become a light mist, I decide to motor over to Kent's dock.  What's the worst that could happen?  Tuck away the boom tent, under power at noon.

I tie up at the dock and walk up the hill to Kent's place, a beautiful home on a wooded point up above St. Leonards Creek.  There is a ship's bell for a door bell, I ring it twice.  After a few moments the door opens and there is Kent.  I caught him off guard a bit, but after realizing who I was, he welcomes me into his home.  

Kent, it turns out, is a very interesting guy.  A retired EPA scientist, he has studied Chesapeake Bay for a couple of decades.  He is a life-long sailor, has a PHD from Rutgers and was a long-time columnist for the Bay Journal.  I suspect few people know Chesapeake Bay as well as he does.  He brings out books and magazine articles that he has written, and tells me about the research he is doing for future projects.

He takes me upstairs to an office where there is a bookshelf maybe a dozen feet long, filled with his sailing logs that date back to small boats in his native New Jersey and include the thousands of miles he sailed throughout his life.  The logbooks are extremely detailed, with beautiful sketches of is experiences, hand-drawn maps and data that only a scientist could love.  

Kent has some work to do, so after a tour of the house he goes off to a desk to write.  I get a very welcome hot shower, do my laundry and then sit by the wood stove.  Just a wonderful break from the storm.

Mid-afternoon Kent tells me he needs to run to the store and I am welcome to join him.  A nice chance to resupply with some fresh fruit and a few other items.  

4:30, after thanking Kent for his hospitality, I walk down the hill to the dock and cast off.  4:50 anchored back in Rollins Cove.

1.2 NM

 

a photograph and some interesting numbers

I received an anonymous comment telling me there is a nice photograph of SPARTINA in the current Spinsheet Magazine.  And there is SPARTINA at bottom right, a solo sail on morning near the tall ships LADY MARYLAND and the AJ MEERWALD.  What caught my attention, though, were some of the numbers that they listed for the Downrigging Festival.  A few of the numbers are below.

9 Tall Ships

1094 Tall Ship sailing tickets sold

8500 Tall Ship tours given

36 additional wooden boats on display

8-10,000 Visitors to Chestertown

12 Bluegrass bands

30 hours of live music

7,000 oysters shucked

And now you know why I enjoy the Downrigging Festival so much!

 

day thirteen - gimme shelter

Sleep in a bit.  Under power at 8:15, cool, clear with a breezy east wind.  Tie up at the town dock, which is unmarked and I wouldn't know it was a town dock until someone pointed out to me.  Get rid of some trash.  Something fresh from a bakery would be nice, but checking my phone I can't find anything in walking distance.  

Cast off and sails up at 9:00.  I suspect I'll head up the Patuxent River for the nor'easter but wanted to check out some of the local creeks.  I tack my way up Mill Creek to explore some coves.  Turn east at Pancake Point and head towards Spring and Leason Coves.  The coves are very well protected, some cruisers have already anchored there.  But they are lined with homes.  That's fine for overnight, but not great scenery if I have to spend a few days waiting out the weather.

We turn back down Mill Creek, leaving Solomons Island at 10:40.  Just outside the entrance at red marker "6a" jibe to head up the Patuxent River, making 4.9 towards the bridge. Passing under the bridge see three deadrises working the oyster beds on the north shore.  

11:10 jibe to Patience Point.  The wind is building and I'm caught off guard by a gust, round up near the point and wait for a second gust to pass before continuing on my way around the narrow sandy spit that juts out into deep water.   

Wind over the starboard quarter, it is an easy sail up the Patuxenet.  Deep blue skies and bright white clouds make me wonder if the weather will be all that bad in a couple of days.

Entering St. Leonards Creek at 12:15, blue skies are gone and a chill overcast has moved in.  A couple of tacks to round Rodney Point and then easy sailing in calm water up the wide and pretty creek.  

12:50 I am pleased with the sight of the cliffs at Breedens Point.  Topped by trees, the cliffs will offer excellent protection.  In amongst the trees I can see a couple of rooftops, but really not much in the way of developement.  How nice!

As I'm looking at possible anchorages, I see a small boat coming up behind me.  A man on board tells me his name is Kent and he has some nice photographs of SPARTINA that he wants to send me.  We exchange numbers, then talk about the weather.  He mentions that he lives on the next cove to the south, tells me to drop by if I need a break from the weather.  

Anchor down Rollins Cove 1:25.  Set up the boom tent and wrap a line around the mast that leads to cleats on either side of the foredeck.  This should help wick away rain coming down the mast.  Settle in for a relaxing afternoon.  

I get a text from Kent with some nice photographs.  He also includes an invitation to his house with an offer of shelter, shower and a meal.  I tell him I might take him up on that.

14.65 NM

 

day twelve - weather warning

Hot tea from my cruising friends, a weather check and cast off at 8:00.  The weather has my attention.  I've got good weather for the day, maybe rain by tomorrow evening and then a nor'easter.  I want to get across the Bay to Solomons Island and then find some shelter.

Clear skies and a solid north wind.  Wearing the dry suit and a double reef tucked in the main.  8:20 on the Tred Avon.  Making 3.8.  8:50 choppy waters off of Oxford.  9:05 jibe an Benoni Point and sail onto the Choptank River.  Making 4.6 and then 5.9 once out on the open water.  Waves coming from after of starboard beam.  

10:00 pick out the shallows at Cook Point which marks the southern edge of the mouth of the Choptank.  I can see waves rolling down Chesapeake Bay beyond the point.  10:15 jibe while rounding the point.  11:00 making 4.7 off of Hills Point, wind over the port quarter.  11:20 less wind, shake out the second reef.

11:45 jibe to cross Chesapeake Bay, shake out the first reef, full sail.  12:20 making 3.6 downwind wing and wing.  

 12:50 see a car carrier coming up the shipping channel.  Sail south just east of the channel.  Once the ship is past, turn southwest to cross the shipping lane.  See another ship, this one coming from the north.  Plenty of room to cross the channel before it gets near.  

1:15 jibe south, 4.0.  GPS shows 6.7 surfing down a wave.  1:50 Cove Point Light in sight.  2:15 making 5.4 past the light.  Crab pot markers show the tide has turned, now a flood (opposing) tide but with all the wind the tide is not a problem.  2:45 Little Cove Point.  

3:00 making 3.1 along the cliffs to Drum Point.  Less wind and much calmer water along the cliffs.  3:25 round Drum Point, sailing close hauled to Solomons Island.  

There's a large, well-marked shoal joust outside the entrance to Solomons Island.  I choose to go south the  shoal, maybe a little more distance that way but better wind out on the Patuxent River.  3:40 tacking up the  east side of the shoal and into Solomons Island.  

4:10 anchor down just off the Tiki Bar & Grill.  I exchange a few texts with Shawn.  He is getting off from work and we agree to meet at the Tiki Bar.  I have known Shawn for years, we have exchanged many, many messages, but I have never met him in person.  Motoring into the dock, there he is ready to catch my lines.

We grab a beer and I order a basket of fried fish and French fries.   We've got a lot to talk about, but my main concern is finding shelter for the nor'easter.  I get out my phone and open Navionics, and Shawn methodically shows me sheltered spots in the area, beginning with the creeks of Solomons Island.   Then he slides the chart up the Patuxent River past Patience Point to Mill Creek and then St. Leonards Creek.  Shawn seems to know every cove and creek along the way, and makes several good suggestions.  It is a fun evening with Shawn talking about all the time he has spent on there water there.

As the sun goes down I tell Shawn I am very glad to have finally met him in person, and I thank him for his advice.  I look forward to seeing him again.  

Shawn cast off the lines and I motor out to anchor for the night.  As I am setting up the boom tent, Shawn sends me a nice photograph from leaving the dock.

33.91 NM