day eight - ride the tides

photo by Webb Chiles

First light down at the dock.  Break down the tent and stow the gear.  Excellent north wind, in fact enough that I tuck in a reef, figuring that it is easier to shake out an unneeded reef than to tuck one in if needed out in the channel.

Webb comes down to the dock and we talk about the tide.  He tells me that an opposing tide began running up at Dolphin Point 40 minutes earlier.  He also points out that the tide will switch near the bridge which is just above Last End Point.  I tell Webb have struggled in this area with all the different tides and currents in this area.  Hope to make the anchorage on the New River behind Daufuskie Island, or maybe even the Wright River just this side of the Savannah River by evening.  It all depends on wind and tide.  I thank Webb for his hospitality and cast off.  Breezier than I thought out on the creek, so raise just mizzen and jib.  Making 3.4 just off the docks at 7:40.

8:00 raise the reefed main near red marker "14," 4.1.  Sun breaking through the low overcast, chilly.  Wearing bibs and wool sweater.  8:30 under the bridge, crossing the head of the tide so that opposing tide is now a helping tide.  

8:40 shake out the reef, full sail down Calibogue at 4.7 to 5.3.  Gps hits 5.7 in a puff.

Skies now clear and it is a beautiful day, wind and tide both in our favor.

9:05 jibe towards the Cooper River, taking the channel west of Middle Marsh Island.  In the cut, pass port to port the ferry coming out of Haig Point on Daufuskie Island.  The channel is lined with floating oyster crates, something I don't remember from earlier passages.  

Making 5.2 on the calm water inside the marsh.  9:40 cut inside red marker "32" on to the Cooper River where I find an opposing ebb tide.  Feels like I am going fast but making just 3.6 sailing into the noisy, choppy water.  10:35 at green marker "37" turn to Ramshorn Creek, 3.9.  10:50 green marker "39" shows the ebb is now a helping tide, 5.9.  Sunny with some scattered clouds agains the bright blue sky.  Getting warmer and take off the wool sweater.

11:05 much calmer water in the marshes, making 5.7 with the helping tide.  11:20 red "44" and the tide is now against us, 2.9.  Already passed the New River anchorage and the Wright River is just ahead.  Not even noon so well ahead of expectations.  

Checking AIS on my phone, see there is a large ship called CHEM STREAM coming up the Savannah River at 8.6 kts.  Making a few tacks on the Wright River, just waiting for the ship to pass.  

11:45 turn into the cut that leads to the Savannah River, there is a wind shadow from trees on shore, 2.5.  Out of the shadow making 5.3.  12:05 sail out onto the Savannah River.  The strong ebb tide is running and quickly see that even with excellent wind SPARTINA is sliding down river.  Start up the outboard to motor sail against the current.  12:20 out of the shipping channel and entering Elba Island Cut.  12:40 red marker "10" shows an opposing tide, sailing at 3.4.  1:00 doing 2.4 in light wind.

Passing red marker "22" see the tide has turned, now a helping flood tide.   1:20 on the Wilmington River, 2.6.  1:40 2.4, then more wind and a run at 5.2.  Less wind passing through Thunderbolt, 3.9.

Leaving Thunderbolt, turn to starboard into the Herb River.  2:45 anchor down.  

Evening, watch a small cruise ship pass by on the other side of the marsh.  Look at the charts and see than in a single day I have sailed what normally takes two days to cover.  The winds and tides were with me.

27.30 NM

 

day seven - waiting out the weather

Up just after dawn to head down to the docks.  SPARTINA and GANNET sit calmly side by side.  Small craft warnings today.  Webb kindly suggests I wait out the weather in Hilton Head. I thank him for his hospitality.

Back at the condo I catch up on the log book, charge batteries and do some laundry.

Webb and Carol offer to take me to the grocery store.  I pick up enough supplies - a bag of apples and some snacks - to easily get me through the rest of the trip.  Back at the condo, I walk back to the dock to find the weather has arrived.  A low overcast and waves battering up against the docks.  All lines are secure and SPARTINA'S boom tent is keeping her dry.

An early afternoon lunch at Hudson's Seafood House, excellent, as we watch the pelicans hide from the winds in the lee of the building.  Then an afternoon and evening watching the Olympics as light rain comes through.  The storm should be gone by morning.

 

day six - perfect wind and tides

Cool, crisp morning.  Dolphins on the river, an exercise class in the park.  Slack high tide and not a breath of wind.  I've got some time before the ebb tide begins running.  Walk up to the the cafe and get a sugary blueberry muffin and a glass of pomegranate iced tea.

8:10 cast off the the first of the ebb helping me back out of the slip.  Under power rounding the sandbar and marsh.  Outboard running rough, a new spark plug solves the problem.

A hint of wind approaching Spanish Point.  8:30 wind fills in.  8:45 gps shows 4.5, then slips back to 4.0.  9:00 pass under the bridge.  Wind comes and goes, as do the dolphins tagging along on the stern.

9:15 a gust of wind and 5.9, then speed settles back to 5.5. The ferry Haig Point IV, maybe coming up from Daufuskie Island for some maintenance, slows down to reduce wake.  I use channel 13 to say "thank you" and get a friendly wave from the bridge.

With Parris Island to starboard, gps taps 7.1 with strong wind forward of port beam, then back to 6.5 with the ebb tide helping.  Wonderful sailing on the still cool morning.  Thermals and wool sweater keep me comfortable.

10:20 off Parris Island Spit, much sooner than I had expected. Begin to fall off the wind.  I check the tide and see that I am getting 1.4 kts from the ebb.

10:25 jibe at red marker "246" off the end of the spit, now making 3.2 going into the ebb tide on Port Royal Sound.

10:35 see a red marker in the distance off Skull Creek entrance.  Soon the green marker reveals itself.  

Steady sailing towards Skull Creek with wind on the stern.  11:45 find I'm coming in a little low off the beach at Dolphin Head.  Jibe towards the entrance makers.  12:00 in Skull Creek, making 4.4 with wind aft of beam and pleased to find a helping tide.  

The channel curves to starboard around an unnamed island but I head straight through the area marked as an anchorage east of the island.  Plenty of water there and masts at the marina in sight.  I call the marina and ask for a slip next GANNET on pier five.

12:30 docked.  Tucking away gear, I hear a voice saying "Hello, sailor!" and look up to see friend Webb Chiles.  I had not seen Webb in a couple of years and it is good to shake his hand.  We talk about the fast passage from Beaufort, I don't think either of us had expected an arrival this early.  Webb heads back up to his condo while I put out fenders and set up the boom tent.

Early afternoon I walk up to Webb's condo.  A quick shower to get cleaned up, then a chance to catch up with Webb and his wife Carol.  A martini in the evening and pizza for dinner, a perfect way to end the day.

 16.32 NM

day five - Forrest Gump, Pat Conroy and me

A surprisingly cold night.  I had not dressed properly for the temperatures in the low 40s.  Up early to layer on some clothes.  Walk around the docks just to warm up, then head to Mameem's, the little cafe, as soon as it opens for a pastry and tea.

Adam comes down to the dock to help me cast off.  I thank him for his hospitality.  Motoring out of Factory Creek, I pass under the bridge.  I have heard some visitors call it the Forrest Gump bridge as it was the stand-in for the Mississippi bridge in the running sequence of the film.  

I head to the fuel dock in Beaufort to top off the gas can.  Kathy, the dock master, remembers SPARTINA from earlier visits.  I tell her I just need gas, not a slip for the night.

But as I look at the pretty Beaufort waterfront, I decide maybe I would like to spend the day there.  Why not?  A nice little southern town, good restaurants and a great book store.  SPARTINA becomes a bigger boat when I go to pay for the slip, the minimum docking fee is for a 25' boat.  Still a modest price for a visit to town.

Lunch is at Luther's Rare and Well Done of Murdaugh fame.  Then back to the docks to clean up the boat and visit with some cruisers tied up there.

Lots of walking around town, a visit to the bookshop to look at the collection of Pat Conroy books.  I take a moment to read from The Prince of Tides and smile.

"I was born and raised on a Carolina sea island and I carried the sunshine of the low country, inked in dark gold, on my back and shoulders. As a boy I was happy above the channels, navigating a small boat between the sandbars with their quiet nation of oysters exposed on the brown flats at the low watermark."

Dinner is a wood-fired pizza at Hearth washed down with a cold beer, or maybe two.

 1.1 NM

day four - five star dive bar

Sail off anchor 7:35, 1.5 with a gentle ebb tide and light west wind.  Cool, clear.  Just a few minutes to turn into the cut to the Coosaw River, motor sailing at idle speed between Beet and Ashe Islands.

A great blue heron stands motionless next the the tiniest of drains running out of the marsh.  With a splash it grabs a baitfish for breakfast.

Slip out onto the Coosaw River 8:10 at red marker "184," sailing at 2.5 with a nice breeze.  A toot of a horn and friendly wave from a passing trawler.  

Beautiful morning, nice breeze and making just over three knots against the ebb tide.  Could not ask for a better morning. 

8:50 better wind off and making 3.7 with wind after of starboard beam.  Think of turning south towards Morgan Island but don't want to give up on this beautiful sailing.  9:20 making 4.0 off Parrot Creek.  Use the VHF to call a tug coming up the channel, confirm a port to port pass.  9:50 can see the entrance markers for Brickyard Creek.  

I recall that a year ago I had received an invitation to visit Lady's Island across from Beaufort, but cannot recall who sent the invite.  I check my emails and find it was from Adam, who runs a canvas shop at the marina.  I text him and quickly receive an invitation to Lady's Island.  He's arranged a slip for me, and I offer to treat for dinner.

Wind falls off turning into Brickyard Creek, motor sailing.  11:20 wind returns, sailing on the ebb tide at 2.3.  Beautiful creek and a lone dolphin parallels SPARTINA in the shallows along the mud banks just off the marsh.

12:25 rounding Pleasants Point green "229a" shows we now have a flood tide.  1:15 turn to port into Factory Creek that runs between the marsh and Lady's Island.  Find Adam and his wife Susie waiting to grab the lines, docked at 1:30.

Adam has been interested in the Pathfinder design for a while and wanted to see one in person.  I give him a quick tour of the boat, it doesn't take long, and then he and Susie give me a tour of Journey Marine Canvas, their shop Lady's Island Marine.  Adam agrees to meet for dinner, then I head back to SPARTINA to stow away gear and set up the boom tent.

I had always bypassed Lady's Island on past trips, instead heading to better known Beaufort just across the river.  I am pleased to find a quiet little community.  There is a nice little cafe/sandwich shop right next to the marina, a restaurant called Lady's Island Dockside on the marina grounds and a dive bar - The Fillin' Station - a short walk away.  How nice!

I've got to catch up on my logs so I head to the dive bar, a five star dive bar they proudly say, to get out of the sun, drink a club soda and fill out the log.  

I have an enjoyable dinner with Adam at the Dockside restaurant, and thank him for his hospitality.  It is always good to meet new people along the way.

 17.9 NM

day three - a day to relax

Wake in the early morning hours.  Calm. Where are the gusts that were forecast into the low 30s?  Up at 7:15.  No gusts, in fact peaceful and quiet.  Cool and grey, a hot chocolate with breakfast.

9:30 light rain.  Not much at all.  A few gusts, nothing close to what had been forecast.  I read, fall asleep.  Wake as the sun breaks through the overcast.  Think about sailing at noon.

After an early lunch I decide I am quite content where I am.  Decide to take the day off, relax and catch up on my rest.  Read, nap.  Some gusts in the early afternoon.  Light rain around 4:00.  A peaceful day on Rock Creek.

 0.0

day two - a misread chart

Peaceful, quiet night.  Chilly morning, wx app says low 40s.  No wind.  Under power 7:10.

Motoring into the flood tide.  Wearing a couple layers of thermals, drysuit and gloves.  Lightest of breezes, but on the nose.  7:40 passing green marker "51" shows that we have crossed the head of the tide, the current is in our favor.  7:50 main, jib and mizzen up, motor sailing.  8:30 wind fills in at green "69."

Look to the stern to see a barge and tug coming down Wadmalaw Sound.  Plenty of water here so move outside the channel to let them pass.  Tug now gone, my company is a dolphin with light grey skin.  9:15 motor sailing, less wind and the tide has swung around to a flood tide.  More dolphins, including a large, dark skinned dolphin with a torn dorsal fin.  Buffleheads too, didn't expect to see these birds so far south.

9:55 sailing, 2.8 then 1.8, rounding a point above the Toogoodoo Marshes.  Motor sailing. Dawho River entrance markers in sight at 10:50.  Getting warmer and stripping off the dry suit.  Looking around there is another another boat in sight.  For the moment, I have the river to myself.  11:15 passing White Point into the Dawho River.

11:30 wind fills in at red "118," sailing 2.9 up the river.  Noon, river bends into the wind, under power.  12:50 under the bridge, main and jib down.  Under power with Little Edisto Island to port.  12:50 North Creek bends to starboard, now on narrow and shallow Watts Cut.  A barge and tug coming up from the stern, I see the captain motion towards me.  I call him at the vhf.  He says they have to make a turn ahead of me and will stay behind me.  I tell him I would prefer to hold my position, let him go ahead and turn into the bank.  Once he has pushed his barge up the shore, I slip behind him.  

1:05 out the cut onto the South Edisto River and find the afternoon breeze.  Full sail.  Making 4.5 and then settle into a steady 4.2.  Making a series of long, easy tacks down river, still working against the flood tide but with all this wind it doesn't matter.

Rounding the point at Alligator Creek making 4.5 and just wonderful sailing. Follow the bend in the river, keeping the tidal flats to port, easy and fun sailing.  A couple more tacks and slide through Fenwich Island Cut.  Anchor down 4:15.

Getting ready to set up the boom tent for the evening, I check the weather.  Surprised to see a forecast for gusts in the 30s tomorrow morning.  I am exposed where I am.  Quickly rig to sail and checking the charts for a better anchorage. I pick out what looks to be a nice creek.  But in the rush I misread the chart, start heading south on the Ashpoo River.  Realizing my mistake, I shake my head, come about, pass my first anchorage, head up the Ashpoo and take the cut to Rock Creek.  The last stretch sailing into the setting sun.  I am frustrated with myself, don't like to be sailing this late in the day and I should have taken more time to read the charts.  Live and learn.  Anchor down 5:30 Rock Creek just above the cut to the Coosaw River.

39.14 NM