Sunday, December 28, 2014

notes to myself

From forward end of centerboard trunk to.....

compass, forward screws:  21 1/8 inches

mainsheet block, forward screws: 29 3/16 inches

mainsheet cam cleat:  46 3/8 inches inches

deck cleats: 2 3/16 inches from cb and 4 13/16 from aft edge of thwart

inboard fairlead (bivy purchase):  1 5/16 inches

outboard fairlead (bivy purchase):  3 3/8 inches

Screw holes for hardware that have a lot of stress
such as the mainsheet block have been drilled out and
hardwood dowells epoxied in place.  Bare wood, exposed
by sanding, wear and tear have been coated with clear
epoxy and filled with thickened epoxy.  

Hoping for warmweather on New Year's Day and/or 
the first weekend of January to get a little more work done.


Anonymous said...

Are you rebedding your hardware with 4200 sealant?

Some of my friends here on the Neuse River are turning to the new version of butyl tape for fixtures.

I'm waiting for a streak of warm weather in January (?) to strip the varnish off the teak trim and refinish. May try the butyl tape myself.

Have a safe New Year!

Bill said...

For most hardware, you don't need an adhesive, as much as just a sealant. A lot of those 3M products are insane adhesives that are near impossible to undo without damage to the substrate. They most assuredly do have their place, and where a completely waterproof sealing adhesive is needed, they're probably the best.

But I've found that where you're just bedding deck hardware, assuming that you're properly anchoring/fastening the hardware with mechanical fasteners (screws/bolts), you need only a good, waterproof, flexible sealant, not an adhesive. That is where a good butyl tape excels. I've seen reports on line showing butyl tape that was still soft, tacky and waterproof when disassembled 30 years later. And it's easy to disassemble, with no damage, if needed. And it's also relatively cheap.

Steve said...

I'll check into the tape. Thanks for the tip.