day eight - the fog, the whale, a message in a bottle

Under power at 5:50.  Windless, slow rolling waves on Casco Bay.  Head to Gooseberry Island.  6:30 anchored in the calm water behind the island, take a nap.  7:45 under power at idle speed, looking to the south there is a wall of fog.  

8:00 round Bald Head.  Rough water breaking along the shoreline.  Islands are just dark shape in the fog.  8:35 the top of Seguin Island is visible above the fog, Heron Island to port and the smaller Fox Island beyond that.  More fog moves in and the shoreline is obscured.   9:00 Pond Island Light barely visible off port bow.  

9:50 clear skies to the north, following the shoreline into the Sheepscot River.  Between no wind and the wall of fog, looking for a place to anchor.  10:10 approaching Harmon Harbor, a possible anchorage but it looks crowded with local boats.  Keep going.

See a dark shape on the surface of the water going from starboard to port.  A whale!  It disappears before I can grab my phone.  Then, with phone in hand, I see a spout.

The whale makes a shallow dive, surfaces again, then makes a deep rolling dive just yards for SPARTINA.

And with a wave of its tail, the whale is gone.

Next anchorage is Five Islands, and Navionics says there are free guests moorings available.  Tied up at the General Store, I top off the gas can and buy some snacks.  I ask the guy at the store about the free moorings.  He shakes his head.  "Those are our moorings," he says with a little anger in his voice, "and we charge for them.  We get two or three people every week asking about free moorings!"  

Lunch is next door at a lobster company, an excellent lobster roll at a reasonable price.  I enjoy it at a picnic table in the shade.  The table seats six, a woman asks if I am all by myself.  I tell her I used to be popular, but now I am not, so yes I am by myself.  "It's probably just a phase," she says, and sits down with me.

Afternoon brings wind.  I look to the south and the fog is still there, but it is clear on the river and pleasant sailing.  Making 2.3 with a helping flood tide.  I sail across the river, round Dogfish head and pass two anchorages, turning into the third, Love Cove.

In Love Cove there are two guest moorings, each clearly marked "Guest, Winslow."  But they are not free.  There is a pink bottle attached to each mooring, and the family asks that visitors write something, anything really, and leave it in the bottle. Under the shade of the boom tent, I spend the afternoon writing a poem about a little yawl and a whale.

That evening a woman kayaks by and says hello.  They are her guest moorings.  She says she collects the notes each day.  When they have family gatherings, they read the notes to each other, then tuck them in a scrap book.  How nice!

 17.89 NM

day seven - the conversation

Cast off the lines at Spring Point Marina 6:45.  Clear morning, calm, no wind.  Motoring at idle speed.

Tie up at the town dock at Peaks Island 7:20.  Two pastries - yes, I'm hungry - and an iced tea at Unruly Girls Peaks Cafe.  I somehow beat the crowd and catch up on the news while enjoying breakfast.

A walk through town on a pleasant morning, waiting for the grocery store to open.  When it does open, I get in line to buy a half-dozen apples.  

Casting off from the town dock at 8:30, a lobsterman tells me he doesn't like sailing, but he likes my boat.  I thank him.  Out on the water I have to watch for traffic.  There is a run/swim event going on, competitors run the length of an island, swim to the next island, run across that island, swim to the next island, and so on.  I admire the runners/swimmers, but am content to be on my little yawl.  

9:30 at the east end of Peaks Island, sailing at 1.4, a bell ringing on a green buoy.

Better wind, 2.4, then less wind, 1.6.  A flood tide with the current running starboard to port.  9:45 motorsailing.  Stop to clear seaweed from the centerboard and rudder.

10:10 sailing again, but barely.  More wind at Cushing Point at the east end of Long Island.  Great Chebeague Island ahead.  Keep Deer Point to port and head towards Hope Island, hoping for a place to anchor and wait on the wind.  Look at both Hope and Sand Islands, can't find a comfortable place to anchor. 11:30 it no longer matters, the wind fills in.  Making 3.2.

11:35 passing Stave Island and dodge a ledge that I had not notice on my Navionics chart.  I think I see a second ledge nearby, but it is three seals rolling on the surface.  11:45 Ministerial Island to starboard and feel a strong tidal flow carrying us north.  12:00 Eagle Island off starboard bow, Upper Flag Island to port, 2.8 to 3.6.  12:15 choppy water off Haskell Island.  With the running tide and ledges nearby to port, motor sail for more control through the rough water.  12:30 sailing through confused tides and waves at Little Mark Island.  With the island's towering monument, at least I know exactly where I am.

1:15 1.9 to 2.4.  The day is getting hot, the boat rolls in the waves.  1:30 better wind, 3.0 to 3.8.  Looking 360 degrees around SPARTINA, I count 11 sailboats on the horizon.

2:10 sail between Ragged and White Bull Island, turning towards Carrying Place Head, 3.3.  3:00 pick out Burnt Coat Island to the north, and the entrance to Carrying Place Cove just to the south.  Approaching what I think is a nice quiet anchorage for the night, I realize it is a working harbor full of lobster boats.  I wonder if I will be welcome there.  I lower main and mizzen to enter the cove.

I wind my way through the lobster boats and, at the south end of the cove, realize there is no place for me to anchor.  I also see a lobsterman watching me from the wharf, and a couple more watch from nearby homes.  I swing the outboard into reverse and back out of the crowded harbor.  The man on a wharf is waving at me, I motor in his direction.  He asks if I need help.  I tell him I'm fine, just looking for a place to anchor.  He points to an unused mooring ball on the far side of the harbor, says I can use that.  3:35 I tie up to the mooring ball.

As soon as I am tied up, I see the man climbing down a long ladder to his dinghy and cranking up the outboard.  He heads in my direction.

"Are you ok?" he asks.  I tell him I am fine, I just needed a place to anchor.  He keeps asking if I'm ok, says he can help me beach the boat, or even find a trailer for me.  I'm a little confused.  He explains that he heard someone say I have a hole in my boat, and the boat is sinking.  Whatever I need, he says, he can help me with it.  I tell him that I am fine, the boat is fine, I just need to anchor for the night.  I thank him for his concern, and apologize for taking up his time.

He tells me his name is Ben, and says don't worry about the time, he has nothing else to do.  And we start to talk.  It's an interesting conversation that ranges from lobstering to sailing small boats; harpooning $10,000 tuna and flying them overnight to Japan; families and friends; kids and colleges; religion and remembering people we have each lost in our lives.  I will never quite understand how we wind our way through this conversation, but we do.  We find we have a lot in common. Talking with Ben is a pleasure.

And finally, after more than an hour of talking, I once again thank him for checking on me.  And he says goodbye, pushing off from SPARTINA and motoring back to the wharf.

 19.86 NM

day six - a day in port

Beautiful, calm morning.  Wake at 5:30 out of habit, no rush to go anywhere, the marina probably won't have any staff there until 8:00.

Take the cut between Great Diamond Island and Crow Island, want to motor down the length of Peaks Island to look at possible anchorages.  I see one spot with mooring balls and what appears to be a Welsford boat.  Maybe a Navigator??   And there is a second area that might make a good anchorage outside of the ferry channel.  Will keep those in mind for future trips.

No wind at all, just motoring at idle speed, enjoying the peaceful morning.

I stop at Peaks Island, tie up at the little dock next to the ferry dock.  The cafes aren't open yet so I take a short walk and then head back to the boat.

Arrive at the fuel dock at Spring Point Marina at 8:00, top off the fuel can and directions to my slip for the night.

It is a day of chores.  Off load the trash, empty the head, dry out gear, get a shower, do laundry, top off the water bottles and walk to the convenience store for a few snacks.

I spend the afternoon in a restaurant, sipping iced tea at the bar while catching up on the log.  The cold tea is good, so is the air conditioning.  Dinner at a little Mexican place just around the corner.  Perfect.

 5.77 NM

day five - Casco Bay

A rough night.  The tiny cove, protected on the south side by rocks, lost the protection as the tide came in and submerged the rocks.  The little boat rolled and bounced on the swells coming in from the Bay of Maine.  Swirling winds.  A fitful sleep.  Early morning hours the tide falls, the swells go away.

Morning comes calm, cool and clear.  I put on some fresh clothes.  No wind.  Under power at 7:00.

7:20 motor on lumpy water, leaving Salters and Stage Islands to the stern.  8:10 inside of Fuller Rock with a lighthouse on the point to starboard.  8:20 rounding Bald Head I look to the west and see Casco Bay spread out in front of me.  I smile.

I'm tired from the rough night.  I try to tuck into Bald Head Cove to get some rest but waves wrap around the point.  Looking north I see a nice white beach with tidy Gooseberry Island nearby.  I motor behind the tiny island and see that the beach is a camping area, tents up on the bluff and families enjoying the beach.  I set the anchor in calm, clear water, lay back in the cockpit and drift off to sleep.

10:25 wake to a light southerly breeze.  10:35 under sail at 2.2.  11:30 passing Mark Island, 2.9.  12:25 better wind and making 3.3 to the west, Bailey Island to the starboard side.  

1:00 the wind continues to build.  Jewell Island off the starboard bow.  The wonderful wind comes with chop and spray, SPARTINA surges through the water at 3.7 to 4.5.

2:05 passing the west end of Jewell Island,  fall off the wind to pass north of Inner Green Island.  Wind aft of port beam, making 4.1 on calmer water.  Easy sailing.  3:05 cutting across Casco Bay, I realize I realize I have mistaken Cushing Island for Peaks Island.  I've missed the turn downwind to Great Diamond Island.  

Jibe back to the cut and pass between Peaks and Long Islands.  3:45 off the east end of Great Diamond Island, headed for the narrow cut inside of Cow Island.  A ferry is coming out of the harbor, the captain sees me and slows to idle speed to let me pass.

We round the point, pass by some rocks and tuck into Seal Harbor.  There is a mooring field in the harbor, most of the moorings empty.  4:00 I tie up to a mooring, set up the boom tent to get out of the sun.

I will head for Portland in the morning so I look at Navionics for a marina.  The first one I call, on the Portland waterfront, gives me a quote of $260.  Ouch.  I find another marina, this one in South Portland, for $100.  That's better.

 25.35 NM

day four - Hypocrites and Cuckolds

An anchor chain rattles in predawn darkness as a large sloops leaves the anchorage.  Wake at dawn to glassy calm water.  The sound of birds and diesel engines.  Not a breath of wind.  

6:50 heading to Pemaquid Point, a lobster pot float shows a flood tide.  Grey and cool.  7:45 sun breaks through the overcast, feels good.  

8:15 Pemaquid Head.  8:40 crossing the mouth of John's Bay, Thrumcap Island to starboard.  

9:15 see waves breaking on two low-lying granite rocks, a marker at the north end warns of shallows.  Marked on the charts as The Hypocrites, I smile as I jot the The Hypocrites down in my notebook.  And I wonder who came up with that name.

Just beyond The Hypocrites is Fisherman Island.  I thought it would have have some protection from the swell so I could rest and wait for the wind.  It does not, at least on the east side.  On the west side is Ram Island, with the two islands making for an excellent little harbor.  In fact it has a mooring marked "Guest."  I tie up at the mooring, take a nap.  A small lobster boat comes through, just one young waterman aboard.  He hauls his traps just 20 feet from SPARTINA, doesn't look up, just does his work and moves on. 

A group of women who seemed to have stayed at the house on Ram Island come down and dinghy to a sailboat tied up at a second mooring.  They are heading back into Booth Bay Harbor.  I hear a loud splash behind me. Looking to the stern I see a large area of disturbed water.  "A whale breached!" shouts a woman on the sloop.  A few minutes later we see the dark shape of the whale surface and then gently slide beneath the water.

10:40 a little wind.  Sails up and cast off from the mooring.  Making just 1.8, glad to be sailing.  11:20 Squirrel Island to starboard.  11:55 passing between Cape Island and two smaller islands just off the cape.  One has a lighthouse, the other bare.  I make note in my log, wondering if they were named by the same person who named The Hypocrites.  They are called The Cuckolds.

12:15 crossing the mouth of Sheepscot Bay.  12:55, wind improving and we pass the waves break on The Black Rocks.  I turn to the cut between Lamb and Salters Islands.  I had hoped for an anchorage at the north end of Salters Island, but all I see are swells breaking over shallow rocks.  

I round the north end of Salters Island, turn toward Stage Island.  Looking to starboard there is a white sandy beach and a handful of small power boats moored in a lovely, calm cove.  Anchor down 2:00 just inside Kennebec Point.  

20.93 NM

 

day three - heading west

Wake up just after 5:00, courtesy of a lobster boat pulling a trap about twenty yards away.  Next comes a seine boat to set the nets for catching the small fish that are used as bait in the lobster pots.  A busy morning in the narrow cove.

Clear and crisp and blue skies.  Sail off anchor 5:45.  A welcome northeast wind carries us down Crockett Cove at a gentle 1.9.  A pleasant start to the day.  6:05 out of the wind shadow of the hills that surround the cove, 3.4 past Dogfish Island.  The wind comes and goes.  7:15 better wind in rolling waves that come down Penobscot Bay.

7:45 making 4.3 with wind over the starboard quarter and a helping ebb tide.  Turn down Muscle Ridge Channel inside the islands that make up the Dix Island anchorage at 8:30, wing and wing making 3.6 with the new leather on the gaff jaws making a creaky noise rubbing against the mast.  8:50 fall off to port, 2.4.  

9:00 rocks ahead, jibe to White Head light.  Sailing at 2.6, wing and wing plus the helping tide.

10:00 off White Head light, less wind.  Soon motor sailing.  

11:25 the northeast wind returns under great blue skies, 2.5 towards Mosquito Island.  Easy sailing and open water, so a good time to begin looking  for anchors using Navionics on my phone.  Pinning each possible anchorage, I use the orange anchor symbol to narrow down my choices.  The nearest spot, Burnt Island, is just over a mile away.  The farthest, Round Pond, 11 miles away.

Light wind, lunch and motor sailing.  12:15 wind fills in front of the southeast, Burnt Island just ahead.  Too early to anchor and not a good anchorage with the wind.  Slip to the north of the island, deciding that Harbor Island on Muscongus Bay will be a good spot for the night.  

Between SPARTINA and Harbor Island,  all I see is a string of islets, rock and ledges.  I watch some local boats, a small sailboat and some lobster boats to see how they navigate the passage.  1:40 jibe through an opening towards Allen Island.  More wind, 3.7.  1:10 fall off to the gap with Allen and Benner Islands to port and Davis Island to starboard.  Come out of the cut with Harbor Island directly ahead.

Less wind but the flood tide carries us in the right direction.  1:30 more wind on the stern, 3.0.  2:40 anchor down in the cove between Harbor and Hall Islands.  Hot chocolate in the shade of the boom tent.

 27.20 NM